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Engine Re Build


genuine  honest  person

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  • Member For: 11y 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

I am going to purchase a atomic valve removal tool very soon ,if anyone in the area needs one to do there's I would gladly help them to do the job . just send me a pm and I will reply with my phone number .I am from Caloundra qld 4551 ,only 90 klm north of Brisbane . the tool alone is $500 delivered ,so I might as well get some use out of it .will be doing mine and jakes FG turbo .

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  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

no ,you may have miss read , the guy with the race engine never got back to me .I was going to buy it ,but if he does not return phone calls or messages . so the same day this 2013 June build FG turbo engine with acc (turbo,etc )with 6 speed manual came up ,with 5600 klm on the clock (with papers engine number and klm to prove ) I just bought it instead .box and engine delivered for $5700

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  • Member For: 20y 7m
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Hills District, NSW

Ah, I did miss that part.

You probably dont need to do valve springs on a new FG donk for 450kw.

Also probably only need to do the oil pump gears if you are going to hit the limitier.

Lots of unopened FG's getting around with 400-500rwkw.

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  • Member For: 17y 3m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

I think you'll find he will have to do valve springs...

The more boost you run, the more pressure that is on them, standard are not made to handle 20psi

Edited by Wilko16
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  • Member For: 17y 3m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Also just to add a little more info on clutches for you gunna

An Organic clutch will most likely have a harder pedal, as more clamping force is needed, but this isn't always true as ratter said

but they are easier to drive

is much nicer to the rest of your driveline eg.(input shaft, unis, shaft, diff gears and axles)

Lasts longer if it is not cooked by slipping it, And it Wears out the disc itself more than the flywheel and pressure plate

And if you get a button/ceramic clutch disc

It is possible the pedal could be a bit lighter as less clamping force is needed

They Can handle more abuse/bad driving as ceramic doesn't lose any friction as it heats up

But downside is that it will wear quicker when it does try to be slipped

And it wears all three pieces evenly, as in your flywheel and pressure plate wear down at the same rate as the disc, so it can become more costly to replace later on as flywheels can be worn past minimum thickness

It's the same as brakes... Harsh pads have good stopping ability, but wear your disc out faster and have better feel

Softer pads like OEM, don't wear out the disc and have softer bite and feel, and go crappy once they are cooked

It's still going to come down to what you tell the place your getting a clutch from

And they will steer you in the right direction

Edited by Wilko16
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  • Member For: 13y 2m 23d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA, Perth

it is only a weekend fun car , so what is the difference from organic to cerametalic ? and what would most go for as I would still like a softer pedal . I am going to have two tunes one on 98 say 340 rwkw . E85 450 rwkw if I even get there with the mods I will have . so mostly it would be on the small tune

Gunna, just a quick bit of knowledge from my end. I have been dealing with Monsta Torque a lot as they are my tuna.

I have been speaking to them a lot about my manual and they have suggested that I get their NPC dual clutch plate setup. Now at ~$3200 it is quite expensive, but I have heard that they are lighter than the stock clutch and rated to something like 450kw. Maybe give them a call and discuss to see what they say.

I know they build good auto boxes as there are people national wide that send their boxes to them to do work. They must be doing something right.

This could give you the info you need to make an informed decision.

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