Which Turbo ?

[genuine honest person]

its just the cat only has alife span of only about 5-6 years and then they start to deteriorate I thought ,so I would rather spend the extra money and get new . yes it is a x force system I have fitted to the ute (twin 2 1/2 ) stainless steel .

phoned up the turbo place I got the rebuild done ,and he said that turbo I have is a good thing . he fitted ceramic bearings with new casings . he did say that for $170 fitted he would fit some better casings to it if I would want to get better life out of it and still use the same bearings . he things that the turbo would be good for 400 plus rwkw with no problems at all .

I have found a local mechanic that would rebuild my engine with new rods etc for $6500 . still waiting for the e mail with the list of parts . but no matter what, the bill will be over $15000. still thinking of going ahead with it as I want it to go fast this time ,and 400 -430 rwkw are not hard to get he said

[Phoon508]

They are a metal substrate cat, so they should last a lot longer than a standard ceramic one. Look at the core before you buy it because its pretty easy to tell if its rooted or not.

You could always just punch the core out and it will last you forever!

But if you want new, then buy new. I got quoted $450 from xforce for a replacement cat a little while back.

Good to hear your keeping your current turbo. I still don't know why your looking at getting a full rebuild though instead of the F6 bottom end for your aimed power level, unless your secretly hoping for 500+rwkw.

Anyway, personally, I'd rather pay the 13k for a built engine off a known engine builder rather than take a stab with the 'local mechanic' and have it go bang.

[genuine honest person]

yes I would go for the $13,000 engine ,but the cheaper mechanic has build about 5 turbo engines for some of the ba turbos that are running close to 500 rwkw that are on the sunny coast that I know . they were all happy with the workman ship .one engine is about 2 years old with no problems so far . he said it is cheaper to build my engine than to buy the fg bottom end and then add the rest to it

Edited 14/02/15 12:39 AM by gunna

[Wilko16]

You are dicing with death, if you are putting the word cheaper in your thoughts.

I don't see how $13000 is cheaper than $2600

If you want 500kw

You are gonna need a hell of a lot more cash than 15k

And then another 15k laying around for when not if something breaks

If you just want a 10second pass go down the e85 road

Edited 14/02/15 12:49 AM by Wilko16

[Buf-Phoon]

ffs Gunna , what is the ultimate goal?

Why ask if you are going to do what you want anyway ?

[genuine honest person]

I never mentiont 500 rwkw ? where did you get this from . all I want is just over 400 rwkw as mentiont before . ok if I buy the FG bottom end ,delivered to my door is $3000 . now the mechanic can balance and fit better rods and pistons for the same price ,so what would you go for ? well I would get the more heavy duty rods with a balanced bottom end . only asking for information ,in the end I am trying to get the best out come . I have still got to decide which way to go .I appreciate everyones input (sorry if I come across rude as I am not trying to )also it may pay to read all the info and not skip parts of it before commenting . all I am after is a low 11 second 1/4 mille time 10 would be awesome . so I am realistic with my goals .

I have just sold some of my shares today ,so in about a month plus I will have $17,500 in my bank account to spend on the ute .so no hurry at all .so please give me information with realistic prices as even head bolts gaskets etc add up real fast . it is easy to say buy the FG bottom end but there are the price in re conditioning the head -valve springs -oil pump gears -timing chain -head gaskets -etc . this is all the real info that I need .

I need to upgrade my fuel system so some idea would be great as I do not know what is a over kill or not enough . also I would like to up grade the rotors to say t3 or t2 if they are good enough with bradded lines ? how much to suit 16 inch wheels . also will need a new flapper mod done to the turbo housing where and how much ? I know ratter would be ok to use . all these parts add up real fast . the BTR I am willing to spend the $4000 -$4500 on it as I want it to be the best build BTR I can buy

I also need the dump and cat ,new 12 psi actuator

thanks again for any info ,but please look at the whole package please . please go easy on me as I am just asking for help , I do listen as I have decided to keep my turbo and not get a new one

the reason I am now going for 400 plus rwkw is due to finding a automatic shop that can guaranty 500 rwkw on a BTR

Edited 14/02/15 04:10 AM by gunna

[Wilko16]

Alright very fair point everyone has been getting a bit ahead of themselves, me included

Have you got a tuner ?

Have you asked them what they want installed/modified to get you to 350-400kw

We all can recommend what we like but it comes down to the tuners knowledge/preference

You might put piston brand "A" in your engine and the tuner might not like pushing them to a certain point or has had a bad Experince with them.

He might prefer brand "B" cause he has had no problems with them

This applies to all the parts really, so you gotta speak with the tuner, or multiple tuners and get quotes

And I was only using the Pistons as an example

Edited 14/02/15 06:50 AM by Wilko16

[genuine honest person]

yes jamie at forced performance at toowoomba .he said he would be happy enough with a FG engine and just fitting valve springs and oil pump gears . he also said a build engine would be far better .ether way I will get the 400 plus rwkw . its just that spool make a kit for the ba ,rods-ross pistons -gudgeon pins -rings and bearings for $1900 . which I believe would be good enough for what I am after .and yes I do listen to people as I was originally going to get a turbo 400 gearbox and as people said just build the BTR to handle the power . so I am listening to you guys .

[barnz]

An fg long has little bonuses, cams, inlet manifold, better chamber design in the head. Better rear housing that doesn't crack...can always build it later on if you manage to kill it.

Plus if you do score one with a turbo and swap rear housing you can make a bit of money back selling a turbo

Edited 14/02/15 12:12 PM by barnz

["Captain Retard"]

Gunna I think you need to step back and reaccess your build.

Here's what I would do.

Reinvest those shares, $17500 is a nice little nest egg and I think way to much to be throwing at your ute.

Remove the engine and box and strip down the engine yourself.

If you haven't already got a workshop manual with torque specs and engine tolerances then get one.

You need to back yourself here because I believe you have the mechanical ability to go through that engine yourself.

Take your time and do your research.

You already know the weak points on these motors ( pump gears, conrods and valve springs).

Buy some inside and outside micrometers and slowly and methodically work your way through the engine.

It's really not that hard compared with what you've already done.

Buy a set of F6 conrods, take your valve springs to someone who can test them and buy some oil pump gears.

Check everything else and make sure it's in spec.

Replace the rings and bearings.

I would even have a look at the box yourself.

I mean it's the only way you learn about stuff is to pull things apart and see how they work.

Once you get it all back together then take it to a reliable and recommend tuner and get it sorted properly.

I think you've said that you've already got over 300rwkw.

I think that should be enough to get you an 11 sec pass.

Once you get your tune sorted I think you'll find a bit more power and a friendlier tune will help with your 60 ft times.

The benefits of doing all this yourself are you'll now know a lot more about your own engine and box.

You'll save a sh!tload of money.

You'll know the jobs done right.

You'll have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

And most importantly you won't get ripped off because you'll only have yourself to blame.

You complain about being ripped off all the time but it's you that gives the power to people too rip you off.

DO IT ALL YOURSELF!!!

It's the only way you will be truly satisfied!

I'm saying all this from experience myself.

Like I said, I believe YOU have the ability to do all the mechanical work yourself.

Sure you may have to farm out some work like machining etc, but you'll have greater control over the finished product.

One more benefit , you'll learn a sh!tload and no one will be able too take that away from you.

We can't all be FIFO miners on big bucks and able too throw huge amounts of coin at our cars.

YOU CAN DO THIS