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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 5m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: left right out

Yeah, but.... nah!

Try a pot and see what happens , leds are funny lil buggers.

$40 bucks aint that bigger deal compared to buying 3 cobalts anyway.

  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 17y 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Lol. Mate, that's all this autometer thing is, a fancy looking dressed up potentiometer.

  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 5m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: left right out

I get what you are saying Keith , I did try a few pots as per another thread in here somewhere, the value of the pot needs to be right and it only seemed to work in a very limited way.

I found led's and smd's dont respond to potentiometer pots as well as regular incandescent type bulbs, but this unit was definatly an improvement over every pot I tried. It also worked on my last cheapy gauges very well which were smd lit.

I havnt opened the unit to see the exact workings of why it works better, but I wouldnt have posted it up if it wasnt the best solution I have found.

  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male

Guys, I've already built a pot and had been using it for months which worked perfectly. All of about $3-4 worth of jaycar components. Works great, its just not ideal. I had the ICC out for other reasons and really wanted to tie it into the illumination circuit of the factory loom.

As you can see k31th, id already posted in that thread. There's nothing in there that talks about FG's, its all BA/BF info.

3bfcb70ea7b85aa03bb1ab38fb9a097e.jpg

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Edited by demon1300
  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 17y 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Hawlass, your setup in that video looks ideal from Min to Max. What's the rating of your pot?

Demon, can you please elaborate on why it is not ideal?

  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male

Because it's a pain in the ass when I want to change the brightness and have to pop out the fpv start button facial and dick around with a pot to get it right. It would be much nicer to just have them all dim together with the dash controls.

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  • XR50T
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 11y 11m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Western Sydney

Has anyone used the lighting cable from the 12v acc socket?

This dimmed with the other accessories in the b series and the cable is still there in the FG.

I've got it all set up but haven't fitted the gauges yet.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 10m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Central Queensland

I am going to sue the Transistor/resistor method in the link that I added in my previous post.

I re-read the thread and given the voltage that he said the he used (5.3v / draw = 300 ohms), I calculated the draw of his two gauges to be around 0.018 amps. I wonder if 50% was added to the current draw (additional gauge) (5.3v / 0.027 = 196 ohms (Rounded off to 200 ohms for the collector value)) would this give a correct value? If my theory is correct, then the Emitter value would be around 73 ohms.

Any thoughts on this??????

Edited by HI PSI
  • less WHY; more WOT
  • Site Developer
  • Member For: 17y 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Melbourne

Demon - The factory dimmer circuit should be able to patched into, just match up the POT once then it'll dim exactly the same as the factory ones. I haven't done it in an FG so I can't point you exactly in the right direction, but it's not difficult in the BA/F :)

  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 2m 6d
  • Gender: Male

k31th, that's assuming I knew which earth wire the pwm circuit was on...

The pot I was using was on the +ive side, not changing the earth potential like the factory pwm circuit does.

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