Transmission Choice Ba Xr6 Turbo

[Skids4kids]

BA turbo tailshaft is allot stronger than the BF onwards turbo tailshafts.

The weak part is the doughnut and rear CV.

[pumpngo]

I have a ute so cv's are no problem .

I have a 9" , strange pumpkin detroit lokcer and youkon axles .

The tailshaft is modified at the rear to suit the 9" still has centre bearing and std front.

If I do have to modify the tailshaft again should I go 1 piece?

Some say the two shorter pieces make it stronger, pure physics would agree if it was just about the tube, but when you through in the centre bearing as a fail point and the fact you can go stronger tube the one piece sounds good.

Some say you get vibration problems. I can't see it myself if balanced properly as the only other problem I see is angle making problems with uni's and I don't think the angle looks too bad.

I'm not trying to get something for nothing here , just trying to do my homework before spending a large chunk of cash , wrong torque converter choice could need to be pulled out to sit on the shelf as a $750 dollar ornament .Seems general concensus ok at 2400-2600 towing.

But all other info on the boxes seems all over the place.

There seem to be people willing to either bag or promote every option.

[CCCC]

I never do any towing, also the box only sees manual shifting, an the only time the box sees overdrive is when I am cruising above 80klms,

I have a 3000 stallie in mine so I would not dare to tow with it, because stallies load an heat the box up hard especially mine because of no lock up.

As for my tail shaft it has seen lots of abuse, over five passes at 143mph an three 9 second passes.

[CCCC]

Speak to toney dominello transmissions, he will point you to the right direction, his number is 9651 5803.

[pumpngo]

I know it's off topic , but how did you get the cage approved in your car as it sounds like it's road registered ?

I'm in Rockhampton QLD and have asked all the local cage builders and I can't get approval for more than a half cage. I also have rally cars so very interested if you found a way arround it .

[bamk2f6tornado]

^talked to the guys at fatz fab?

[pumpngo]

Yeah Fatz said it can't be done any more and there is no way they know around it .

Seems ANDRA will allow bolt in now but still a fine if your caught on the street wih it in.

Edited 10/01/15 11:40 AM by pumpngo

[pumpngo]

What fuel consumption do you get with the 3000rpm stall non lockup?

What diff do you run?

Just thinking with that set up it's pretty comparable with the c4 I'm concidering and I'd like some idea how bad the fuel consumption will be.

I'm thinking 2400rpm stall,I have been told by a few trans guys 2400-2600 rpm is ok , so with the 3000 stall, even in od I think mpg should be similar as you'll have a higher gear but a bit more slip.

[Skids4kids]

I have a 4000rpm stall from a proven BA ute to use in my build and it drives quite tight still....flexes to about 4600rpm on E85 at about the 10ft mark with a GTX3582 turbo so might be closer to 5000rpm with my 6466 gen2.

Converter has seen well over 40k in a ute and used daily for his job to cart around loads.

I cant see a well built stall from TCE being a issue at 2800rpm and say 10" in diameter.

[pumpngo]

I'm not saying the stall will fail, that's more about the quality of the stall.

Maybe I'm telling you something you already know But.

Any stall that does not have a lock up clutch slips. All slip. More slip more wasted energy, more heat caused by the slip , more heat has to be removed by the cooler or your just cooking chips and the rest of the box will die.

The minimum slip is at or after the rated stall . so if your cruise rpm is less than your stall speed you are sliping more than necessary using extra fuel to make heat.

I can't see a road car cruising at 4000 rpm , so that is why I asked the mpg question.

Some converters are made tighter than others and slip more or less before stall speed, but even a tight one is slpipng at more than it's minimum before rated stall.