Clutch Gone Completely Soft!

["Captain Retard"]

It's on the flexible hose that comes from the firewall to the rear of the cylinder head.

The leak is just before it joins the hardline behind the cylinder head. I've removed the heat wrap that was on the hose.

Very hard to access with my slightly on the girl side hands.

Also the hose is a little brittle due to age.

I used an inspection camera to check the CSC and couldn't see any leaks.

Edited 18/12/14 03:52 AM by "Captain Retard"

[Ralph Wiggum]

Yeah, your pretty much screwed them.

You could try an AN hardline joiner and use and an barbed fitting into the remaining house but you'd just be dumping more cash in.

Get a braided line from mal wood.

If you hate dropping gear boxes take it to a decent mechanic. If they could have the box out, line changed and box back in with the clutch bleed in 2 to 2.6hrs they are taking you for a ride.

["Captain Retard"]

Man I would happily pay a couple of hundred bucks to someone I had confidence in but as I've always done my own work , I've had very little need for a mechanic in the last 30 years.

I'll just have to suck it up and stop the princess act is all.

While I have your attention, is there any reason I can't just remove the gearbox and leave the bell housing in place?

The book I've read says remove it with the bell housing, but it would be a hell of a lot easier to just remove the box!

Cheers!

[arronm]

  On 17/12/2014 at 5:37 AM, arronm said:

I don't think that hose has a join. It goes from the master cylinder to the CSC. So box out

Call Mal wood and get the new line (braided). A bleeder line. And a new alloy CSC with billet piston

When box out. Maybe throw in a new clutch as well

[Ralph Wiggum]

  On 18/12/2014 at 4:12 AM, "Captain Retard" said:

While I have your attention, is there any reason I can't just remove the gearbox and leave the bell housing in place?

The book I've read says remove it with the bell housing, but it would be a hell of a lot easier to just remove the box!

Cheers!

You don't need to remove the bell housing to remove the box, but if you throw a clutch at it while it's apart you'll need to.

Do you have the correct book? T5's bell housing is integral so can't be remove from the box. T56 you'd struggle to get the box out without removing it from the bellhousing.

["Captain Retard"]

Yeah the book has a chapter on the T56.

I like to have a book on hand for the schematics, torque settings etc etc. I generally don't find them much help when it actually comes to doing the job.

Arronm the clutch has about 25,000kms on it and it's in good shape plus I'm pretty easy on clutches.

I've removed and replaced plenty of gearboxes over the years but I ain't getting any younger.

I'll make up a cradle and bolt it to an old trolley jack I have lying around for a bit of support.

[arronm]

"Arronm the clutch has about 25,000kms on it and it's in good shape plus I'm pretty easy on clutches."

Sounds like your the opposite to me then. I abuse mine every time I drive it

[Ralph Wiggum]

The T56 is a heavy lump mate. You'll need the jack and two people to do it safely on the floor.

I have done it myself a few time and it's very easy to f-up and bork the clutch. I'd also suggest you get yourself some long 10mm bolts and remove the head so they can be used as guide bolts to assist maintaining the alignment when you slide the box back in.

["Captain Retard"]

Thanks for the tips!

Will do with the guide bolts.

From what I've read the clutch is a worry but I'll just take my time.

Hopefully I've only got to pull it back a few inches depending on what the slave looks like, we'll see.

I've changed FMXs, Turbo 400s and Toploaders by myself before and their all effing heavy.

Worst case scenario I'll drag the wife under there with me, LOL!

Thanks again guys

["Captain Retard"]

Well I've finally fixed the clutch

Pic of broken line

Only had to move the box back a few inches

I had the clutch line repaired for $79 using braided line

The slave checked out OK and the box slid back in very easily ,no probs.

I ended up pumping fluid thru the bleeder back up to the reservoir and then pumping the pedal a couple dozen times and the clutch felt good.

Took it for a test drive and all good

Thanks guys for the tips, much appreciated.

Happy days!!!