Is There Any Steering/suspension Component That Can Cause Premature Ro

[Ralph Wiggum]

You've pretty much answered your own question.

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

^^^great! it seems for once I'm actually slightly understanding what you're on about hahhaa

cheers!

Peter, seems like we are both in the exact same boat buddy and I have the DBA T3 rotors.

I had a good 25min conversation with Matt yesterday and I was told that it could be anything that has caused the problem.

you can replace the rotors(mask the original problem for a while as mentioned) and it ill go away.

Or it could be the bushes for the control arm.

Could be the way the rotor was installed without removing dust from the hub.

Could be the way the nuts for the wheels were tightened.

It could even be the resins from the brake pads that have accumulated on the rotor. a few heavy braking from 80km/h could help remove this resin.

Endless possibilities and no one will fess up and replace items under warranty.

At this point, my plan of attach is to get the shockworks gear off .stripes and then get Malaga suspension to install them, but at the same time replace the bushes in the control arms.

Good luck and if you find the problem before me, let me know okay.

Hahaha.....yeah Marco.

We have similar problems....but I think I remember reading that yours was slightly different I.e. you only got shudder from extreme thrashing or something?

Yeah tell me about the warranty sh*t....farken everyone plays the blame game and says its this or that, blah blah blah. My issue: bought the gear off Matt (who also came up with similar solutions and mentioned the control arm bushes), had calipers rebuilt and all gear installed by Hitech Wangara (who have an apparent 'good rep' with car dealers I.e. Jared@ Seaview said he uses them when they have a brakes specific issues, etc) and then had opinions from RDA bloke (who spent a few days trying to evaluate my scenario to see whether the issue was their manufacture/quality control issue)....but he basically ruled that out and said if the rotors had any run out from factory, I would have noticed the shudder straight away and that it wouldn't be fine for 5000kms and then farked again - which is why he suggested suspension or steering component that is causing runout and therefore premature wearing of rotors.

Obviously masking the problem for a short period of time is bloody stupid and pointless, so I need to get to the cause and fix it. Especially when I have no skills and have to pay for labour all the time :(

But yeah; I will update the thread after next Friday (cause that's when I have a RDO and am going to Pedders Joondalup to do one of their suspension/bush inspection tests....and fingers crossed something obvious is apparent). If it is a bush and I can get it in writing, I can make a claim against my aftermarket warranty and pay zip!

But if not; I'm still gunna price up the cost of different bush kits and see which ones I can afford to do....but I'm hoping ol' Lukey is onto something and fingers crossed its an easy fix (although SP website says 3/5 spanners for difficulty and 3hrs install time; so with the price of the kit I'd be close to the $500 mark for one bush replacement) - I guess you gotta do what you gotta do but hopefully parents give a decent Christmas present - which is usually cash cause I whinge that I'm poor .

Oh....and rotors would have been installed correctly (had my hubs cleaned up and they also put grease stuff on it) and my wheel nuts are torqued correctly 99% of the time (the last service a bloody apprentice must have installed the wheel nuts back on....cause they did it up so tight that I cant take them off with my torque wrench - but don't worry; from now on I will be reminding anybody who touches the car that I want my nuts to be handled with a torque wrench only and not a bloody gun). And in terms of pads - well Ralph & JET both rekon the bremtecs are sh*t....which annoys me cause they weren't the cheapest pads available. But I will continue to use them with these RDAs and sell them when I'm done with the RDAs....when I go my DBA rotors, I might try something new....QFM A1RM or something was the one people raved about IIRC...but will research again when the time comes (I will just have to live with brake dust - hell that's why I bought the IronX stuff lol)

Whoops! this quickly turned into one of my essays again :( lol sorry to anyone who had to read my gibberish!!!! but its my thread so EAD if you dont like my ramblings hahaha

thanks again for everyone's opinions....yall's is good peoples

[senna_T]

Upper inner control arm bushes and strut bar (or radius rod or caster bushing depending on what you want to call it) will all but fix this after you replace the discs.

[genuine honest person]

my top ball joints were stuffed (5-6 mm of movement ) and I never machine disks as the shutter comes back even faster .

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

^^^so why not fix it and then you wont chew through rotors? lol

Or do you just put up with the shudder

Upper inner control arm bushes and strut bar (or radius rod or caster bushing depending on what you want to call it) will all but fix this after you replace the discs.

Thanks Mr T! see what I did there lol

If the speds at Pedders cannot find the problem; I will hit you up for some pricing on SP bushes (if you read my ramblings above, if I can get it in writing from another 'expert' then I can make a claim against my aftermarket warranty) - because I've had so many different shops look at my bushes and just say "its fine" - but clearly there must be something going on....

I need to send you a PM anyways in regards to the rear swaybar link pins: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/281409534744?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649

Unless you just wanna answer it in here??? I already have a whiteline solid rear swaybar at home waiting to be installed with my other suspension crap. I read the advert above and noticed you state they are just as good as having a rear sway bar in place.

Does that mean if you add the rear sway bar + add your link pins; that I will have even better handling stiffness/performance? Or will purchasing the link pins just be a waste of time I.e. they wont make a difference if I am already installing the whiteline rear bar?

cheers!

[senna_T]

Upgrading the link pins is a great idea when going to a bigger bay - it takes away the deflection in the factory style links with rubber bushings.

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

Thanks Mr Pat

I will send you a PM soon!

[discostig]

Pat

Pat

He's our man

If he can't do it

No one...

Will

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

^^^crazy cracker!!

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

Thought I would leave an update before this thread is lost in the chronicles of xr6tforums

For those of you playing at home...Pat and Luke were spot on in their predictions!

Took the car to Pedders Joondalup and very surprised how accurate they were in spotting weaknesses in the suspension system...pretty awesome value too for only $28 and just on an hour of their time! Marco I think you should give it a try as well...very honest chap and best $28 I've spent on the car

Anyways...upper inner control arm bushes are pretty much gone. And they also said radius rod to chassis bush is starting to tear.

They also found a rear bush about to go (cant remember the name) - but luckily its a bush that can be replaced without dropping the cradle...apparently?

And my rear sway bar link pin bush is almost gone (but just got my replacement wholesale suspension part the other day) - so thanks Pat for the speedy service as usual!

So plan of attack will be install bilstein F&R suspension with kings springs too...install F&R whiteline sway bars and WS rear swaybar pins...(this will happen over a weekend when my family mechanic is free). Then try and get replacement bushes done from Seaview Ford under aftermarket warranty (hoping to score SP bushes if possible). Then get allignment done (either my usual place TTF in Jonndalup or maybe pay the extra to get one done at WA Suspensions). Then get my sh*tty RDA front rotors machined and see whether these bushes stop the rotors from wearing out early. If the shudder goes for like 15,000-20,000kms then I'll know its worked and then will look at T3's for the front and new pads too.

Ok end of post....hopefully it all works out

Thanks again for the help peeps!

Cheers