PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 9m 13d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 11/12/14 11:36 AM Share Posted 11/12/14 11:36 AM Hey peeps....thought I would throw this out there in case anyone knows or has experienced similar scenarioBasically; my shudder has come back.I had new rda shi*y rotors, bremtec pads, goodridge braided lines and rebuilt calipers all round.Had no shudder for around 5000kms and then it came back.At first it was only present during super heavy brake application...now it can be present in anything above 50kmh. Obviously at 90kmh+ it is there with light brake application....under this speed its only present in medium to hard applicationWhen speaking to RDA...their "expert team" stated its either a suspension or steering component causing premature wear...and if I changed rotors again or even machined...they would warp after 5000kms again..therefore need to sort out issue first before doing anythingRead that lower control arm bushes can cause shudder? Going to Pedders next week to see if their machines/processes can point anything out? Every shop I been to says "bushes look fine"...but yeahAny help would be good.Other issues/symptoms that could be related or possibly not include:1) weird clunking noise from front drivers wheel area (only when going over chit roads/brick paved roads2) intermittent vibrations; usually steering wheel and speeds above 70kmh (had tailshaft replaced but ford said maybe need readustment/rebalance)3) slight play in steering wheel - approx 5-10mm 4) weird wobble (from left to right) of whole car...only in peak hr traffic on mitchell freeway between 15-30kmh and only when accelerating/backing off I.e. bumper 2 bumper trafficHad wheel allignments, balances, tailshaft replaced, sliding pins of calipers regreased, wheel hubs cleaned/greased...Car is a 2008 FG XR6T, sedan, auto, 116,000kmsThanks for any opinions...hoping someone has a clue Cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arronm Dropping a turd Gold Donating Members 9,520 Member For: 17y 4m 11d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 11/12/14 01:28 PM Share Posted 11/12/14 01:28 PM (edited) Don't drive on the Mitchell freeway. Problem solvedBut seriously is the shudder / vibration coming through the car or the steering wheel Edited 11/12/14 01:30 PM by arronm 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genuine honest person Member 2,769 Member For: 11y 1m 10d Gender: Male Location: near brisbane Posted 11/12/14 07:43 PM Share Posted 11/12/14 07:43 PM no idea ? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xr6tForMe Donating Members 273 Member For: 11y 8m 9d Gender: Male Posted 11/12/14 08:14 PM Share Posted 11/12/14 08:14 PM (edited) We have a BA wagon bought at 95000km. It started to shudder when braking, shortly after we got it. Ford machined the disks under warranty just before the warranty ran out, but the suffer came back fairly fairly quickly.I bought some ADB disks and ADB "performance" pads fairly cheap through eBay and never had another problem. The car has now done 215000km and I just changed the pads. I think they lasted amazingly well.I also like the way they work.We do not give the brakes a hard time on this car, but brake shudder A. Happened with the original disks B. Came back quite quickly after machining the original disksC. Was permanently fixed by changing disksBased on that I would suspect that the disks should be replaced. Edited 11/12/14 08:16 PM by xr6tForMe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 9m 13d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 11/12/14 10:24 PM Author Share Posted 11/12/14 10:24 PM ^^^Thanks for the input mate!The thing is I replaced OEM rotors with the RDA slotted/dimpled...I would have thought they would be better than ADB setup cause slightly more expensive?Interesting you have had good experiences with that brand...goes to show the cheaper stuff isnt too bad sometimes But will be going DBA just cause. Don't drive on the Mitchell freeway. Problem solvedBut seriously is the shudder / vibration coming through the car or the steering wheelLol...no mitchell fwy is not an option..sure the "wobble" might stop but the other symptoms are still thereThe shudder I.e. braking. Is through whole car and steering wheelThe vibration is mainly through steering wheel/pedals...its intermittent and usually only when coasting I.e. under 2000rpm. This could be just the shocks/springs going over some slightly rough roads (apparently my car had f6 suspension and ford dude said slightly stiffer springs? - couldn't get him to notice it during small test drive)But the shudder is what sucks the most. FML Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo86T Silver Donating Members 1,810 Member For: 11y 26d Gender: Male Location: SW Sydney Posted 11/12/14 10:45 PM Share Posted 11/12/14 10:45 PM Just for the record, I have RDA's on my ute and don't rate them at allShudder like hell at any moderately hard braking, though fine around townMore recently had warped rotors on the G6ET - family rig - and replaced them with DBA 4000sSwear by them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 9m 13d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 12/12/14 02:22 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/14 02:22 AM (edited) How can you put up with them shuddering like hell? LOLMine is worst when temp is warm; say after 20mins of driving and using the brakes normally. Then when you hit the freeway and even soft braking makes the whole car violently shake! It sucks cause no hooning around either....like overtaking someone then having to brake pretty much straight away (cause another retard ahead) and then violent shudder :( But will be going DBA once I have some spare cash. I am tempted to go T2's for front cause its $120 cheaper....but I have to learn to do it once, do it right....so will go T3's at the front ^^^ I have a set of DBA cross drilled/slotted for the rears (got it really cheap of fleabay)....so was thinking of painting the hat area of rotor to black; because they come with yellow hats and yellow inside the venting part of disc.On a side note; does anyone know if it is fine to just use engine enamel (high temp) spray can paint on the rotors and would I need to buy high temp primer as well or should be fine just painting over the DBA yellow paint? I will just do them gloss black I rekon.....unless of coarse I shouldn't risk it and just put up with grey/charcoal coloured hats in the front (T3) and then yellow hats in the rear (XS) I.e. will the extra layer of paint will somehow affect something? Edited 12/12/14 02:23 AM by PTR_NITRO_FG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Lifetime Members 19,331 Member For: 19y 5m 15d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 12/12/14 02:30 AM Share Posted 12/12/14 02:30 AM how many km's?Castor control bushes would be my tip. New rotors will mask it for a while then it will return. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 9m 13d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 12/12/14 02:35 AM Author Share Posted 12/12/14 02:35 AM 116,000kms Ralph.Cant find that term on Nolathane website? Which ones please http://www.nolathane.com.au/do_segue.php?make=FORD&model=FALCON+%2F+FAIRLANE+%2F+LTD&model_final=FALCON+FG+INCL+UTE%2C+G6%2C+G6E%2C+FPV&vehicle=9%2F08-ONIf this was the problem; would it be apparent/show up when I take it to Pedders to do their little "Test Lane Plus" thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Lifetime Members 19,331 Member For: 19y 5m 15d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 12/12/14 02:43 AM Share Posted 12/12/14 02:43 AM http://www.nolathane.com.au/product_detail.php?part_number=45582controls the forward/aft movement of the wheel.Dont get nolathane get SP 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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