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2004 Xr6 Turbo Sedan


proxr6turbofamily

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  • Member For: 10y 2m 24d

Hi

One of my xr6 turbos (orange1)has heavy steering and shudders when turning while stationary

Plus as your driving it has about 5 -10 mil movement in the steering wheel before it actually turns wheels

Any help would be great

In our silver 2003 xr6T it is sluggish like there is no turbo

Would this be the wastegate jammed ?

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  • Member For: 19y 2m 13d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: North West Hot Hell,VIC

You might want to get your ball joints checked on the orange car by a decent mechanic. These cars are hard on them. You may as well get him to check your other car as well. There could be many

reasons for it feeling sluggish.Take it to a decent workshop that is familiar with these cars or it will cost a lot on mis diagnosis. What area do you live in ?

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  • Member For: 16y 7m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

Stiff power steering could be worn ball joints.

Get the car up on a jack, remove the front wheels and push up and down at each brake disc.

Look for movement at the rubber boot on the ball joint on each side.

Any movement = replace ball joint ASAP.

The part number for BA/BF is BA3395A. Do a search on eBay and you'll find them for around $60/pair delivered.

The tricky part is getting them out and the new ones in. I bought a special tool for the job ($350) but there are cheaper options out there. Do a search on www.radum.com.au for ball joint and you’ll find a couple of kits there (ie $99).

Part number: RDM-BM94-4063

http://radum.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8686

How to replace them: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/89015-photo-essay-replacing-babf-falcon-ball-joints

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  • Member For: 11y 8m 2d
  • Gender: Male

Thank you for the fantastic write up.

I used it to replace the ball joints in our BA wagon.

I used the "big G clamp" style tool but it was still very hard to get the new balljoints in.

I ended up doing up the clamp as tight as possible, then bashing on the bottom of the clamp to get the new balljoints to move, then repeat until they wees in, but it worked in the end.

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  • Member For: 16y 7m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, Western Australia

I used the "big G clamp" style tool but it was still very hard to get the new balljoints in.

I ended up doing up the clamp as tight as possible, then bashing on the bottom of the clamp to get the new balljoints to move, then repeat until they wees in, but it worked in the end.

Yeah, it requires a heap of force to push the ball joint fully in.

An alternative for extra leverage: an AmPro T29771 ratchet. This thing extends out to give a bunch of extra leverage. With this, I can get enough leverage to push the ball joint in as far as it can go.

I bought one ages ago but never really took to it. I bought that one via Amazon US, but local Ampro stockists should be able to get one in if you want one.

I’ve gotten used to the extra bulk of it and use it for everything these days. I even bought a spare one to keep in my ute (with a basic collection of tools) - useful for removing tight wheel nuts.

Commodore_Diff_Oil_02_5_6_2014.jpg

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