Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?

[masda74]

Hobby, I wish it was a hobby and that I could afford it all the time. I understand that brakes are important and it is one thing I will not skimp out on, but I do not have brembo brakes.

The shudder that I am getting is my problem. If it is the brake pads, then I want to get something else that will fix it.

If I can get something like the a1rm or the remsa and it gets rid of my shudder, I will be a happy man.

I do not need brembo braking performance, but I do need better than factory braking. I appreciate all the recommendations you have provided as you are a wealth of knowledge.

I was hopping that there have been others out there with the same issue that I have and have resolved it by replacing a specific component.

If not, then I shall be the guinea pig.

I did a few 100km hard braking this morning and it seems that the shudder has reduce significantly, however it is still there.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Pad to suit your calipers from PMU appear to be comparable cost wise to qfm/remsa.

[barnz]

Its actually cheaper as a1rm's aren't any cheaper for the rears from memory, so 240 a set.

What did you not like about the a1rm's ralph? If you know of a better pad for a similar price id be keen to give them a try next time.

[Ralph Wiggum]

noise/dust/low bite.

The 4 pot brembo's don't have the greatest braking feeling in the world so low bite pads (especially when cold) make it hard to brake smoothly.

I prefer a bitier pad that grab's and then allows you to back off the pressure rather than less bite and having to jam the pedal to the floor.

I'm very happy with the remsa's performance wise but I don't have the time to be cleaning brake dust off my wheels every second day.

The PMU's may turn out to be as bad but nothing ventured nothing gained.

[masda74]

Thanks for that Luke. If I were to change the fronts only, how does that affect the braking of the car?

The rears still have the OEM rotors and pads. This should not be the cause of shudder though, should it?

[Ralph Wiggum]

front's do most of the work so it wouldn't be an issue.

[barnz]

Front warping will generally give you a shudder in the steering wheel, rears will give you a pulsing pedal...generally..

[masda74]

Just wanted to do an update.

Over this last weekend I managed to make some time and got to do some work on the car.

Repco in Welshpool had a special on last week, where the Repco Rotos were $55 from $120. I got the Bendix CT pads as well for $50 something dollars.

I bought these for the rears and got them done.

The pulsing sensation is still there but not as much as it was before. This tells me that the fronts are the issue.

I have been in contact with Bremtec and they have agreed to swap/exchange the pads.

They gave me a long spiel about brakes not being bedded in correctly and how maintenance is required. They also mentioned about rotor run out possibly being a problem.

They did say that driver style could also be a contributing factor in regards to my comments about the pads squealing and give off a lot of dust.

I am waiting for a reply to find out how to get them exchanged.

Once the pads are changed, I will let you know the outcome Peter.

Have you installed the pads already, or are they still siting in their boxes Peter?

I will be updating my build thread with the work carried out on the weekend, if anyone is interested.

I will be updating this thread.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/86850-fg-xr6t-going-in-for-mods-and-tune-soon/

[PhilMeUp]

The pulsing sensation is still there but not as much as it was before. This tells me that the fronts are the issue.

Grab a 100m wire brush wheel from Bunnings and make sure that there is no rust on the bearing hub.

Rust can push the disc off centre, so I’m always using the wire brush and drill to make sure that everything is metal-to-metal contact.

For machining disc rotors, I take them to Nick at Marfleet in Edward Street, East Perth.

[barnz]

Not trying to burst your bubble but have you actually had anything else checked/rectified like control arm bushes ect.

Coz changing just pads alone wont do a thing for shudder. I had it bad on the fg, and I knew the brakes were toast, BUT before installing anything I made sure everything else that can be a contributing factor, like wheel bearings, bushes ect was all good. I was not happy with the way the front left wheel bearing sounded although it had no play. So I did both as a precaution. Then on went braided lines/rotors/pads and new fluid. Everything is fine nearly 12 000ks later.

Point is last thing you want to happen is to spend all this money on brakes that end up farked coz of a relatively cheap part.

Having said that driving style does play a huge factor as does the quality of the parts used. I can destroy a set of properly installed OE or RDA rotors in like 15min(I live near various mountains with great twisties). The T3's have held up thus far anyway. If you have warped them I would say incorrect wheel nut torque, worn bushes/bearings or unacceptable installation run out, or a combination of are more likely to be the problem. If all of those things check out I suppose resin buildup from those pads could be the culprit but that should be a visible problem.

Sorry if you have already answered those questions I didn't read back over the whole thread but do remember you starting it..