Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?

[GeGe6]

Wanted to know when you might have some feedback. Just curious.

[Lennox]

How'd you figure out about the control arm bushes?

[masda74]

That is a different story Tim. I just happen to be doing other stuff to the car and they picked up that the bushes are shagged.

Decided to get the camber kit as well as the Nolathane stuff cause it worked out cheaper for me.

[Lennox]

Ah I see where this is going

[barnz]

Control arm bushes mentioned 3 times on the first page lol....glad you found the issue mate.

Masda, replace your control arm bushs (nolathane) and hubs, you will be sorted. Mine were wobbly too.

I have done these as well as T3's and pads. Heavy repeated braking through a long gorge racing scenic touring with a mate (private gorge road of course) . His xr8 yoot was pouring smoke off the very wobbly brakes and mine were and still are sweet.

That fluid is indeed farked, make sure you syphon that sh*te out and give the reservoir a good clean before flushing again.

There is no way you can see runout in the thousands of an inch with your eye bro.

As said check/replace your control arm bushes before doing anything else with the brakes.

Also do you torque your wheel nuts to spec in correct order?

Negative.

That brake fluid looks like it's years old.

It certainly hasn't been replaced recently. If you've paid someone to do it then you got ripped off.

These days for flushing brake fluid, I have a couple of spare reservoirs. I remove the existing one and put a clean one in its place (I'm doing this stuff often).

Brake fluid dissolves in water, so you can drain the reservoir with a syringe and then remove the reservoir itself. That requires an 8mm socket on one side and disconnecting the cable on the other side. The reservoir will then lift out.

Wash it in warm water and let it dry. This is why I keep two spare ones clean in sealed plastic bags.

Brake shudder causes:

- worn control arm bushes

- rust between the disc rotor and the wheel bearing hub (pushing the disc off alignment). I use a cordless drill and wire brush to clean the rust off all the surfaces.

An old thread about flushing brakes: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/78762-photo-essay-brembo-brake-fluid-flushing

Replacing front lower control arm bushes: http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/88363-photo-essay-replacing-front-control-arm-bushes-version-20/

[masda74]

Hahaha funny f*ckers.

Unfortunately you will not be able to say "told you so" cause the issue is still there.

:'(

I am gonna put the pads in to see how it goes over 6mnths period.

I am going to have to torque the wheel nuts up as well as I am sure they did not use a torque wrench.

Ah I see where this is going

What ya trying to say Tim?

Edited 20/02/15 10:22 AM by masda74

[Lennox]

Shockworks?

[GeGe6]

There on lay-by.

Ok, but how does front end feel with nolothane?

[masda74]

The steering wheel is a bit harder to turn initially, but feels a lot better during the turn, eg going around the round about.

I was expecting to have some sort of NVH, but I cant say that I noticed much.

What am I suppose to feel?

[PhilMeUp]

I only wish they made the Hawk Ceramic pads in the std twin piston shape.

This. I use Hawk Performance ceramic pads on my taxi with 6/4 Brembo calipers.

Girlfriend's taxi has the BA Premium 325mm calipers, so I've got Hawk pads there as well.

Being a US company, Hawk make pads for cars that are sold in the US. I figured out that the 6 piston Brembo caliper is the same as the Lexus IS-F and mid 2000s Merc AMG. The 4 piston rear Brembo is the same as a Ferrari 360. The BA Premium caliper was also fitted to the 97-02 Corvette.

However, the standard two piston Falcon caliper was never supplied on anything sold in the US. Bugger.

The Hawk Performance pads don't get much positive feedback on forums. Dunno why. I belt the crap out of mine and they work well.