Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?

[aiboart]

where you running these pads though?

http://bremtec.com.au/product-range/brake-pads/endure/

No.

Sticking with the Ford genuine (PBR) pads for the BA Premium Brakes. Those pads combined with DBA-5000's and PBR braided lines provide low braking effort, zero system latency, perfect control linearity and sustained high Fc even under very severe heat loads.

I did try Ferodo DS-2000's, once. After a couple of thousand km I removed the pads from the car and went back to the Ford (PBR) pads.

[masda74]

^^^Thanks for the tip Marco! $50 for both front rotors? That's pretty good especially for Perth based business (Its only down the road from work too)....It would mean though that I need to either have my car off the road for a week (cause I would need my mechanic friend to come down on the weekend, remove rotors and either just put the old OEM warped rotors back on - or just leave it jacked up for a week). - But for all this hassle; might be easier to just get it done at Hitech (think they quoted $70 for machine and then $100 per hour for labour I.e. prob 1 hr to remove/fit front rotors).

Marco,

The local Mechanic in Ellenbrook will also machine rotors, charged me $40 ea last time more expensive than east perth but a fair whack closer

I don't know how I missed this. They charge $50 per rotor and it takes about an hour each.

$50 for both is not correct.

Update:

Pedders have advised that my bushes and suspension is fine. The rotors have seen some heat apparently.

The rotors are warped and the pads stuffed. Now the office in Victoria park said they needed 2 hours to do the job.

The Malaga store did it in 40 mins and that is including the paper work as well.

I wish I had left my dashcam on to see exactly what they got up to.

Anyways I have been in contact with Bremtec and they have agreed to replace the pads if need be.

I have spoken to Matt this morning and was asked to do a few things before hand.

Matt wants pics of the rotors and pads. He also asked that the pads be taken out and lightly skimmed on concrete and put back in.

Then do a few controlled emergency braking and see if it resolves the issue. he wants to figure out what caused the issue, so it does not happen again.

He believes that it is resin from the pads that are on the rotors and wants to get that off.

If this does not do the job, then getting the rotor's skimmed is next on the list.

He will then replace the pads with what ever is required.

[Seaton]

Hey mate,

Just quickly skimmed through this thread,

I was running the factory non brembo size T3s last year at a track day in January, it was a very hot day and there was literally smoke still coming off the brakes when coming into the pits. The rotors turned blue and turned all those thermal heat guide paint markings white, so the rotors exceeded 650'c being the highest temp marking.

Even after this day my rotors where not warped, so I would be very surprised if it was warped rotors.

[Bulletime]

Could have been head spotting though, super hot and water splashes on and quickly cools only a part of the rotor thus causing it to warp, have been told of this happening to ppl

Edited 07/01/15 11:02 AM by Bulletime

[Ralph Wiggum]

I think i mentioned resin on the discs on the previous page Marco, due to (imho) questionable pads for a 300+ rwkw car

[FormulaFG]

If your rotors have resin on them is that something easily identified visually?

I currently run Bremtec Endures with T3 rotors on recommendation from Matt @ Race Brakes Sydney. Stock calipers and braided lines.

I was braking hard down from 100+km/h the other day and the wheels felt like they were going to vibrate off. I know the car has ABS and it will pulsate a bit, but damn......

Think I should machine the rotors and put the OEM pads back in?

Edited 19/01/15 05:58 AM by FormulaFG

[masda74]

Ahh I see that it looks like it may be the pads after all. This is the second occurrence of this happening.

Well I put the stock pads(after scuffing them up on the side of the road) back in and did some hard braking.

Most of the shudder has gone, but there is still a bit under hard braking.

I would suggest taking out the Endure pads, scuff them up on the side of the road and then put them back.

allow the car about 200-300km to bed the pads in. no hard braking.

Then do some controlled emergency braking and see if it reduces the shudder.

This is a different approach to what I have done, but I am curious to find out if it scrub the resin off completely.

[masda74]

Thought I would post an update. This was all done the previous weekend of the 10th of Jan.

From this pic, you can see the goo on the back of the pads. The stuff was like glue and made my life a living hell for 15-20 mins.

I was told that if I took one of the bolts off the back the calliper (not of the support bracket), I could rotate the calliper out of the support bracket and swap the pads.

Easier said than done, when you doing this for the first time.

I even jumped on the forum to do a search. I eventually could not find the answer and just decided to grab a spanner and use it to wedge the calliper out.

I put CRC red goo on afterwards to stop the squealing.

Here you can see the different angles of the rotor and the different colours.

The back of the rotor was the same thing.

The indicators on the top of the rotor indicated that the rotors had not reached a set temperature.

Since the Endure pads are meant to endure temperatures of up to 450 degrees Celsius(I think that is what Matt said.) if it had reached that temp, then the markers on the rotor would show that.

however the markers do not indicate this. Matts words were that it cold be the pads.

I did it all down to the book. The rims were cleaned on the inside. Before and after pics.

Here you can see that the rotor face the meets up with the rim, is half way to being cleaned out.

Yes I did get it all cleaned out.

I got the torque wrench out and tightened them calliper nuts to spec(well at first I thought I did.) I did them to 124nm which is the same as what wheel nuts were done at.

I then realised hat they should have been between 115nm. The support bracket is between 98-132nm from what I can tell from the BF manual

A week of very sedative driving and taking it easy was done. Then one day I got stuck behind two cars travelling at 85-90km/h in a 100 zone.

Lost my patience and over took at the first opportunity that I had, with all the rage in the world.

It was at this point that I spotted someone up ahead in the bushes and so I did the first CONTROLLED emergency stopping since putting the OEM pads back in.

I believe this cleared out most of the resin from the rotors.

Now during normal driving, I can not feel the shudder at all. At 80km/h and above there is a small amount of shudder but not noticeable unless you looking for it.

If you do any emergency braking at 100km/h you then feel the shudder. It is not as un-nerving as it was previously.

At this point, I plan on putting the OEM rotors back in, then put the OEM pads back in as well.

Grab the DBA rotor and take it either to Ellenbrook or Nick in East Perth and get them machined.

[FormulaFG]

Thanks for the update.

Looks like I'll have to pull the wheels off and investigate further. Looks like the bremtecs might be headed for the bin.

[***VX*R8***]

Mine does a very similar thing (shudder) with DBA t2 slotted rotors and hpx pads front. Standard Ford rotors and pads rear.

It actually seems to have gotten a lot better over the last few months though and I only notice it if slowing down fairly quickly from high speeds. Usually I just release the brakes and then get back on them if I feel it happening, sometimes that's not an option though.

I've had an r33 gtst with dba4000 slotted and drilled + bendix ultimate (good but very dusty), a 180sx with rda slotted + hpx, vx clubsport r8 with dba4000 slotted and drilled + hpx pads.

The fg is the only car I've had the problem with. My 180sx had all bushes replaced with polyurethane and my Clubsport has had all bushes replaced.