Brake Shudder - On The Hunt For The Problem. Over Heated Brake Fluid?

[PhilMeUp]

If you have warped them I would say incorrect wheel nut torque.

This is another possibility.

The disc rotors get sandwiched between the wheels and wheel bearing hubs.

I'm obsessively nerdy these days and use a torque wrench whenever tightening wheel nuts on a Falcon.

I also do this with the car partly jacked up - I'll have enough contact between the wheels and the ground to ensure that the wheels won't rotate, but I also want the wheel nuts and holes in the wheel to centre perfectly.

Tightening to the correct torque is part of it, but also getting a consistent torque on each bolt as well.

Edited 05/01/15 05:50 AM by PhilMeUp

[masda74]

Thanks for the replies guys. I have updated the other thread with the work I carried out.

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/86850-fg-xr6t-going-in-for-mods-and-tune-soon/

The hub was cleaned up with a wire brush as recommended. the new rotors were cleaned up before installation.

The old rotors did not look healthy at all and all 4 pads were cracked or portly glaze.

I did run out of time before doing anything else.

I plan on making my way to a pedders centre in the near future(once pay day arrives) and get the bushes checked out.

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

I am waiting for a reply to find out how to get them exchanged.

Once the pads are changed, I will let you know the outcome Peter.

Have you installed the pads already, or are they still siting in their boxes Peter?

Sounds good man! I would be surprised how the exchange would occur....especially if used?

And yeah mine are installed already and probably close to 10k kms use..so I was gunna sell em for super cheap...or just leave them as a spare set or IDK ?

[mrtwinturbo]

The problem causing the shudder I'm told is with the booster, there is not enough clearance between the booster and master cylinder with the pushrod. Give Darren a call on 9755-5370 he is in Chipping Norton NSW @ Performance Road & Race Parts, tell him mrtwinturbo sent you. He deals in brakes, clutches, rotors etc he can machine rotors in his workshop also. He said he can reco the booster for around $400 inc parts n labour. This is for BA BF n FG. I'm looking at getting this done in the near future, will let you know how it goes. I have dealt with Darren for years, and highly recommend him. He knows his stuff when it comes to brakes. His website is wow . performanceroadandraceparts.com.au

[turbotrana]

There is a simple fix. Bendix Ultimates. They machine the disc for you whilst you are driving. So whilst the cast iron shifts around over heat cycling, the Ultimates are constantly skimming the disc.

Two sets of pads per disc, no machining of the disc thru out the life of the disc. THe disc is a consumable, just like your pads. You can chase all sorts of theories but a non aggressive pad on a hat disc will always cause issues.

Of course make sure the hub surface is clean.

Yes the pads are dirty but either that or clean wheels and discs that pulsate after 10000km.

[Ralph Wiggum]

I run soft pads and am yet to experience brake shudder. Flogged bushes are the root cause time and again.

[Ralph Wiggum]

I think one of the key points that's missed when talking about brake shudder is distinguishing between braking induced steering shudder and brake pulsating.

[masda74]

Well once I replaced the rear rotors and brake pads, the pulsating sensation I had during light braking has gone.

I only have shudder through the steering wheel when baking at speeds over 80km/h.

I have booked in to Pedders today and will have to wait and see what happens.

[turbotrana]

I thought Ferodo DS pads were aggressive enough to keep the disc true on my FG. After 10k km the pedal was starting to pulsate. As an experiement, without machining I put Ultimates in and after about 10k its all good. Takes a while to true up but eventually does. I used to think the hub was at fault but a runout test with a dial indicator gauge it was good.

Even with my VT Commode which had shudder problems, I tried a few combos but Ultimates seemed to be the only cure.

I know some guys have success with soft pads with certain discs but I am just saying if you tried everything and don't mind the dust, try Ultimates. They give good initial bite also.

[masda74]

I just want to thank everyone that has given advise so far. I have read everyone's advise and I have a plan in place.

I will be getting the car in to Pedders this arvo to get the suspension checked out and they also check the brakes out.

Once I have a report, I can work from there.

I know that my rears were due for a replacement and I choose to do that first. I blame Stripes for that.

Does anyone have a dial indicator gauge at home that I could use, or if I could come over and test my rotor's?

I don't want to go out and spend $200 for a dial gauge to use it twice and then just sit there in the garage.

I rather buy a decent torque wrench that has more than 108nm marked on it.

My Toolbox has expanded significantly since purchasing this Falcon, which is a good thing for me as I love tools, but it ain't been good to the hip pocket as it is empty a lot lately.

If the Dial gauge shows me that there is no run out, I won't take it to East Perth to get skimmed.

I will just get the bendix ultimates instead.