Icc Problems

[xr6tForMe]

Good luck. I hope you get it sorted out.

[Gianni0991]

Well done some repairs to the old girl yesterday and was planning on removing icc after everything else was done. But, while the car was on the hoist the dam thing started up again, so there goes the chances of trying to fix it. Now to wait for it to die agian. Thinking I should just buy a new icc as I'm thinking it has something to do with the screen. This issue is sending me loopy lol

Edited 24/12/14 12:49 AM by Gianni0991

[bandblightfoot]

Anyone know where on the gold coast it is possible to get ipod module linked to icc in fg mk1. Sunshine ford want car for 6 hours and $150. I know it's a simple 5 min job if you have the scan tool and software.

[Gianni0991]

So worked out that a wire or connection had to be loose. Pulled icc and pulled apart to find that a solder on the main board that plugs into the car and dried and broken. Re solded and havnt had a problem since

[EvilDaifu]

Did you take any pics or can you describe in more detail where this dry joint was? I probably have the same issue - driving misses nuts as she hates air-con and I like it ON but we cant adjust it when the ICC goes blank

[D4V1D]

Sorry to bring up an old thread but I was able to fix my ICC screen after reading thru this. I thought I would attach some photos.
My coloured icc screen on my BA  kept cutting out turned out to be a cracked solder joint.

This was the solder joint that was cracked

It was behind this transistor thing These are the clips you bend to pop out the circuit board there’s 3

[ChrisBfpv]

Hey D4V1D, thanks for your post!! I was able to repair mine, thanks to your pictures.. my dry solder joint was actually on the Capacitor to the right of the transistor thing lol. 

Had only just bought my territory and the ICC stuffed itself. Thankfully, looks like this might have fixed it 👍

Edited 08/07/20 11:00 PM by ChrisBfpv

[fox1972]

Just to add more too this discussion to help others out....I know it's an old thread.

My problem was the pins behind the big white connector, and the green connector. The green connector would cause the screen too flick on and off as well. I re-soldered all these pins, including the pins D4V1D pointed out. Fixed.....

Also, the Main Pluck/plug attached to the chazy had broken guides so the plug would not go into the ICC properly. I was a little worried about breaking this but I really had no choice...The interesting part is, the lead looks really short, but it's not. The black plastic shroud/cover behind the plug, is actually taped to the loom tight making it appear short. I broke away the black plastic cover...pulled it out, undone the tape, and the plug extends out almost half a foot. I wrapped it with black tape to keep the wiring nicely together. I then ran a long cable tie behind the plug on the ICC...then plugged it in easily, then cable tied it...I know theirs only 1 cable tie in the image, but I ran two in the end, and threaded them through the wires so their was only pressure on the plug, and plugged in evenly. Also when you slide the ICC back, guide the wire back straight otherwise it will kink and the ICC wont go back into place. I hope this helps out anyone with the same issue. Once you removed that black shroud, it is so easy to do. You have plenty of room to work with.

 

Regards..