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  • Member For: 20y 3m 27d

The powertrain computer looks at a whole host of factors including: intake air temperature, coolant temperature, engine oil temperature and transmission fluid temperature in order to decide whether or not to wind back power by pulling out boost or advance or both.

It follows then that the cooler you can keep the beastie and the critical parts and fluids thereof, the happier the PCM will be to provide you with the power you so desire.

Just fitting a better IC will fix part of the problem, but, if you are already running overheated engine oil or transmission fluid it will not fix everything.

Fitting engine oil coolers, fitting better IC's, and fitting better transmission coolers (and even insulating the elongated BA-BF intake pathways) will in ideal circumstances provide your engine with early sping like conditions in summer.

Also, running high octane and high density fuel will help stave off the onset of predetonation in hot conditions, which in turn means more power from the PCM.

Yet another approach, that is quick and cheap, is to take off slowly for a while before boosting in order to flush the engine bay, the IC etc. with air that is not at engine bay temperatures. The PCM algorithm will then reset its protection stragegy in order to exploit the relatively cool, non-enginebay temperature ambient air.

Edited by aiboart
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

For starters why not change to a lower temp thermostat during your summer months, I believe the stock is 92C where I'm pretty sure I run an 82C and have the fans kick in just before that temp also to keep the temps down... Up north we run cooler thermostats regardless, a good IC to keep the ambient temp down as much as possible (6C over ambient is better then 26C) and for the more power hungry water/meth kit, which most do up here anyway not to add power but to back up what is there already time and time again!

If you watch exhaust temps over a drag run from start to finish then run water/meth for the next run and see the magic that it does in keeping temps way way down...

Allot of tuners are still sceptical as they believe if there is steam in their taking up room then you can't have fuel also but it truly is good sh*t and does wonders for intake and exhaust temps!

Just a thought for you Mexicans...

  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

Yes that's exactly what I'm on about "not to add power but to back up what's already there"

I think mines already got a lower thermostat because in winter it struggles to get above a quarter on the gauge.

Just had an interesting drive home.

It's been a hot day here and after finishing work I drove around to the coke ovens (a good Ks drive) because they have an excellent car wash with high pressure sprays that gets some of the fallout off your car.

Anyway I drove about 400mtrs up the road where I had to merge with other traffic, short shifted to 3rd and booted it!

Well the traction control light was on and the BOV was going off its head with the back stepping out

So this must have been due to the intercooler getting a nice spray in the wash as 10ks down the road I repeated the same thing and whilst it got up and went it wasn't like the first time.

So external intercooler sprays would work but they would have to predict the future to be of any use on the street.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Took a photo of my gauges at 9am this morning after getting back from picking some sh*t up across town. Photo is prob crap so-

top left is Intake Temp

bottom left is Trans Temp

top right is Boost

bottom right is Coolant Temp...

Car was sitting for a few minutes when I got home so intake temp was higher than usual and today's temp at that stage was 31 degrees!

post-2018-141747933585_thumb.jpg

Fcking Tapatalk!!!

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Hey Captain, In pretty sure there was an article done on water IC spray. Can't remember the mobs name but it was controlled via temp, throttle position and boost... Auto something? They were online articles...

Throw me a bone here fellas! lol

  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

Yeah I've read the other parts as well.

It certainly has merit and would work under some circumstances.

But for the street I think it has limited value for me.

It would probably work much better during track days but I don't know how officials would feel about them as they could be a hazard.

I think cooling the intake air is the only real solution other than using a larger intercooler.

Interesting read though.

The other thing I've been meaning to research just out of interest is N20 (nitrous) on the intake mainly for cooling but again this is not practical for the street.

One more thing, I happened to watch Shannon's legends the other day, the one on Brock.

When he drove the Sierra at Bathurst he used the fire extinguisher system to spray his intercooler during the the top 10 shootout.

He got pole position but was found out and relegated too 10th.

Cunning bastard!!!

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 21y 8m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Cunning Stunt...Hehe

Water/meth injection is definitely the way to go if you were going to go to the trouble of setting up some form of inter cooling as such! I don't look at it as a power adder (although it does) but as a back up to what can happen with allot of variables (heat soak as an example), especially when running the motor on the ragged edge too...

When you talk of nitrous Capt do you mean through the piping systems that they brought out back in 2008-9 with basically aircon lines running from the bottle to the tear drop shaped bulb in the intake then onto the intercooler where it was discharged onto the fins to cool them also?

Again I can't think of that system which caught me eye back then but was expensive!

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