I Jet's Bf F6 Ute Build

[I JET]

I showed the paint work a bit of love today. Paint was still in pretty good condition but it did badly need the clay bar on the tops. Did the whole car and a wax polish. Shiny as faark now.

[luke187]

Looking good mate, love that silver. 'scuse the lots of questions but what bikes are those and do you race or just track days? What sort of revs are you seeing full boost by and did you decide on a clutch?

If you havent I'd second direct clutch recommendation, I got the 5 puck solid plates as they were lighter but they recommended the 8 puck for the street. Cant say enough about it, 5 puck shudders on take off but it'll handle any abuse you'll give it plus the cermaic plates are far better suited to heat. I weighed the mal wood option 5 with flywheel vs 8" DCS twin plate with flywheel and the DCS clutch and flywheel assembly came in 15kg lighter. Would be hard to believe a 2" smaller rotating mass that's 15kg lighter wouldnt have a huge effect on the way the car pulls.

[I JET]

Looking good mate, love that silver. 'scuse the lots of questions but what bikes are those and do you race or just track days? What sort of revs are you seeing full boost by and did you decide on a clutch?

The black one is an ex- fz6 cup race bike & the other is my street bike, KTM 1290 Superduke R. I just do the occasional track day. I got right into it a few years ago and started doing a few race meetings but its an expensive hobby, definitely a rich mans sport.

Joe tuned the car to be fast and not just smoke the wheels so it builds boost progressively and doesn't hit full boost until 4000rpm, However it will spin up in second when it hits full boost and if the tyres are cold it will spin in 3rd at full boost. (depending on the quality of the road)

As far as clutches go I'm leaning towards a NPC kit. I got a quote from them on Friday for a kit that will support 430rwkw but I've emailed them back for a price on the next kit above this. I'm hoping after the next round of mods I'll be making 400 - 430 at the wheels so I'd like to have a bit up my sleeve. Car is no longer a daily driver so I'm not too concerned about retaining a factory feeling clutch peddle.

The factory clutch is still holding up at the moment but now that I know it has to be replaced I have been abusing it a bit more than usual.

may the boost be with you....

[bjc]

I showed the paint work a bit of love today. Paint was still in pretty good condition but it did badly need the clay bar on the tops. Did the whole car and a wax polish. Shiny as faark now.

3M clay bar (blue in colour) is the best mate. I get them either online or from my nearest paint and panel shop. All the others aren't as good at removing the grit.

We all know the sandwich bag or cling wrap on the finger tips test also which is the best method to feel the paint surface.

[I JET]

agreed, this was all I could find in store......I used the blue 3m clay when I worked at a car dealership and it was way better. I'll order it online next time, I had a hard enough time finding a clay bar on it's own, every shop I went to wanted to sell me a kit for $60 with a bunch of useless sh!t I didn't want or need.

[bjc]

Yes they are expensive from supercheap, autobarn etc!

[raised by monkeys]

We all know the sandwich bag or cling wrap on the finger tips test also which is the best method to feel the paint surface.

minus 1. What's this?

[bjc]

Put a sandwich or freezer bag (plastic) on your hand and very lightly with your fingertips run then along the cars paint when it's been cleaned. You'll understand what I mean as it will feel like gritty sand! Generally only clay bar then paint cleaners get rid of most of this. That's why I recommend the 3M clay bar as it grabs and removes nearly all of this industrial grime... I gave up years ago keeping my car clean so after I get new ball joints, dints removed then I have a nice bloke lined up to do the hard yards as he is great with a polishing machine!

[raised by monkeys]

Put a sandwich or freezer bag (plastic) on your hand and very lightly with your fingertips run then along the cars paint when it's been cleaned. You'll understand what I mean as it will feel like gritty sand! Generally only clay bar then paint cleaners get rid of most of this. That's why I recommend the 3M clay bar as it grabs and removes nearly all of this industrial grime... I gave up years ago keeping my car clean so after I get new ball joints, dints removed then I have a nice bloke lined up to do the hard yards as he is great with a polishing machine!

I assumed it had something to do with the feel of the surface of the paint. I hate clay bar-ing. When I got my new ute I had 2 different panel shops (for reasons not worth explaining) to buff the paint, then I waxed it. Mind you, I dont think they did a great job in the buffing, cause even after it was waxed it didn't have the smoothest finish.

This weekend going to wax again, about 1 1/2 - 2 months since the last time it was waxed (sorry for the thread hijack).

Edited 13/02/15 03:37 AM by raised by monkeys

[I JET]

Had a bit of fun this week. I had a small exhaust leak which I though was the turbo flange working its way loose but I came to find it was actually the dump pipe gasket.

While I had the car up on stands I decided to attack the rest of the xforce exhaust. I have had problems with one of the flanges about half way down the car hitting the inside of the chassis rail when hard corning (left corners)

You can see how close the flange sits to the chassis rail in this photo

I had a bit of a brain wave and thought about fitting some springs, one on each side to help keep the exhaust centered during hard corning and take out some of the excessive side ways movement. I found some motorbike side stand springs in the bottom of my tool box and went about finding a suitable location under the car.

Left hand spring - It is directly opposite the problem area.

Right hand spring - This one is a little further back, just in front of the center muffler. I still need to put a rubber sleeve on this one.

I'm really happy with how the springs work, they still let the exhaust move around as required but stop it from moving excessively and bashing against the chassis rail.

Next issue is the rear muffler - For starters I found the whole exhaust to be a bit too quiet for my liking. I only drive the car on weekends for fun now so I wanted to make it a little louder to improve the overall driving experience.

- The second issue I have is the rear exhaust tips sit about 1.5 inches too low. My factory exhaust also sat down at this height.

So I decided to do a muffler delete and at the same time lift the height of the tips.

New pipes welded in place.

I wanted to keep the xforce tips as they are resonated. Also it worked out quite simple to do it this way as all I needed was 2 x straight section of 2.5" with a 10° bend on one end for each pipe. I had the muffler shop open up the ends of the pipes so all the pieces just slipped in together and was super easy to weld up.

Had to weld on new hangers of course but got the pipes lined up nicely & sitting up in the rear bar now instead of hanging down like a set of nuts.

Sounds great. Its a fair bit louder on idle and going up through the gears but when you're cruising at anywhere from 80 - 120 its quiet as. Cant tell the difference on the highway.