Tune For Racing ?

[FPVF6355]

It still has stock fuel pump. Been looking at a surge tank that fits in the engine bay and holds a bosch 300LPH pump (next mod) Out of the corner sections I was letting the car settle for a couple of seconds before booting it on the straights.

The tune I have has alot of boost 14.5 psi that holds until redline (when upchanging at 5500 you can hear the blow off dump air.)

For intercooler size I'm not so convinced, the BF typhoon race car had stock IC and stock piping, no problems.

When I think about 20,000 litres of air passing through at 5000rpm, a 50% bigger IC would make marginal difference to intake temps. that's half the volume of an average sized inground swimming pool every minute. In that I think the below comment makes alot of sense.

  On 09/09/2014 at 10:17 AM, Bulletime said:

Jesus 30 minutes on track and somewhere like sandown, you don't like your car much do u lol! Everyone I know only runs for about 15-20 minutes per session. With my stock fg it will limp at about 18 minutes in winter, I'm happy doing about 15 mins anyway.

I'm assuming u have good brake fluid too, you should change it every track day if your hitting 200.

E85 is good for the strip but putting the power down on a circuit is another thing. Someone on here with 275 wide slicks on the rears will only run his e70 tune because he just bursts into wheel spin with straight e85.

Definitely can be worth getting your tune setup for mid range and low boost, knowing the circuit you go to could play into how you tune for it as well, how much of a top end do u really need etc.

Thanks for all the feedback, makes alot of sense, will be looking at E85 options and a suitable tune

[MattyP]

Just go a big in tank like a walbro 460. That'll keep you happy until 400rwkw and keep your fuel cool

[nelsonian101]

As many of you know, I've been fighting the dreaded engine temp saga for years at the circuit! :)d

What was the temp at Sanddown that day?

Try not to track mine in temps over 25-30deg, but Scatterbrain has regualar high temp track experience.

My suggestions would be as follows:

- Change your engine oil and brake fluid asap. Both will be fried.

- Is yours a ZF or manual? Very often overheating limp mode is misdiagnosed as engine oil temp related, when it's actually the ZF fluis getting too hot.

It's very hard to tell what happened. I'd be investing in a few gauges. I've actually found the best one to be a simple alarmed digital gauge that I connect to the thermostat housing for coolant. Preset the alarm for 115-120deg, so you can concentrate on your driving at not check gauges every 60sec. The Aeroforce OBD ones are good too

Other things I've done to keep temps down. List is long:

- Big engine oil cooler and big ZF oil cooler both fed by removed foglights with thermo fans sucking air through.

- Bigger Fenix radiator (or PWR) with custom foam shrouding.

- Straight water as coolant with just Redline water wetter or similar as additive.

- Big floor mounted industrial fan in pits. Even spray intercooler in pits with water bottle to cool.

- Vented bonnet.

- Cool down laps and bonnet open all day in the pits.

- Shorter session. Usually 5 laps for me.

- E70 or E85 with over engineered fuel supply like dual fuel rail etc

- lower boost, richer tune. Turning heater on and venting to back seats helps sometimes too. All I can think of at the moment.

[nelsonian101]

With regard to an ideal tune for circuit racing?

I would say you want a fat area under the dyno graph. A lot of power/torque down low for expanding exit turns in 3rd with boost up top on the straights.

320-380rwkw. Modified GTX3576 would be my choice on 70-85% Ethanol.

Anything over 400rwkw is pretty much useless without a serious amount of chassis mods and talent.

Change the Garret nylon turbo bushes for steel bearings as the stock Garret ones fry.

[MattyP]

Interesting you say water over a proper coolant,

Why's that?

["Captain Retard"]

Water has a higher boiling point I think!

Regular coolant stops your coolant from freezing and helps stop corrosion but boils at a lower temp.

I run some special stuff in my bike that will not boil but it's dear as poison! I think it was like $55 for 1.5 litres.

[MattyP]

But the main constituent of anti freeze is ethylene glycol which has a boiling point of around 190. Maybe it has something to do with how it acts under pressure?

["Captain Retard"]

I used to know this stuff but it's been along time.

It's also got something to do with how the heat is transferred from the metal (block, head) to the fluid and back through the metal(radiator) I think, like I said it's been along time and I got a brain like a sieve!

I'm Sure someone knows this sh!t and will correct me!!

[Wilko16]

Ethylene glycol has a much higher boiling point, but it does not transfer thermal energy as efficiently as water...

So water absorbs the heat from the block better than a glycol coolant mixture,

and then water can disperse that heat energy into air through the radiator easy than a glycol coolant mixture.

And increasing the pressure in a cooling system, increases the boiling point as well

Basically coolant is in our cars to

- prevent corrosion in the cast iron

- prevent electrolysis

- increase the boiling point, without having to have really high pressure radiator caps

[Wilko16]

Random update - 100% ethylene glycol boils at 197.5 degrees