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Peppy's Build Thread


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  • Member For: 11y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Liverpool

It was a big night last night, I got the motor/box in and most of the accessories, and spread out the wiring loom...

I put it in with both manifolds on, all the accessory brackets, engine mounts, sensors, turbo feed and returns, and heater pipes..

Before putting the rocker cover on we primed the motor with oil... Dad modified an old gas cylinder, you pour all the engine oil in, tap into one of the oil holes (I used where the turbo feed connects to) then connect up some compressed air and open the valve!... I didn't film it bud it's awesome to see and hear the oil come out off all the oiling holes, obviously turning the engine slowly as you go, the lifters pump up, and it gets oil through the whole engine, then we just pumped the extra oil over the cams

Ralphy and Tranna were right about it being tight, but we got it in... The rear end up about 300-400mm and the front about 200mm... The back of the rocker cover fouls on the fire wall, the sump then the balancer touch on the front radiatior sill, and the bottom of the box touches the crossmember haha... By putting a jack under the crossmember, and dropping it gave enough clearance to go in on more of an angle to clear everything... If you leave the rocker cover off it will probably make things easier again, and radiator out... Support the back of the box with another jack and creep it back as you lower the motor...

Easy yea?

I didn't take any helpful photos if the install, so hopefully my description makes sensehttps://vimeo.com/128194250

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  • Member For: 11y 10m 18d
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What did you do on the head gasket sealing side. Looks like you used some white sealant.

The machinist recommended Threebond White, We applied a liberal amount to both sides of the gasket.. see how it goes

1fe44223b7a49bdebc5a344b80655d61.jpg

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  • Member For: 11y 10m 18d
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Are you running it in on a mineral oil ?

Yea, I believe it is mineral, I'm using Joe Gibbs Break in oil, recommended for no more then 500km

Still deciding what I'll run after that, I want to steer clear of any full synthetic stuff

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  • RNS10S
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  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
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Yea, I believe it is mineral, I'm using Joe Gibbs Break in oil, recommended for no more then 500km

Still deciding what I'll run after that, I want to steer clear of any full synthetic stuff

Any reason why you don't want to use Synthetic oil Joe?

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Any reason why you don't want to use Synthetic oil Joe?

Ford recommend a Mineral 15w-40 oil for std applications, speaking with dad he seems to think that synthetic oils aren't the best for roller rocker applications as it tends to cause the roller to slide or rub rather then roll... Then again the coyotes and 5,4's also run roller rockers yet full synthetic is recommended for them, so I really don't know the theory behind it... But after the wear on my cams I'm willing to try something different just for my own research purposes.. I was using Nulon 15-50 race blend stuff and that seemed to come out clean, no noises etc...

I'm looking into Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn and now the ULX110 stuff

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  • RNS10S
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male

Ford recommend a Mineral 15w-40 oil for std applications, speaking with dad he seems to think that synthetic oils aren't the best for roller rocker applications as it tends to cause the roller to slide or rub rather then roll... Then again the coyotes and 5,4's also run roller rockers yet full synthetic is recommended for them, so I really don't know the theory behind it... But after the wear on my cams I'm willing to try something different just for my own research purposes.. I was using Nulon 15-50 race blend stuff and that seemed to come out clean, no noises etc...

I'm looking into Joe Gibbs, Brad Penn and now the ULX110 stuff

All good Joe, was just curious.

Brad Penn is good stuff, also heard good things about ULX

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