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Peppy's Build Thread


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  • Member For: 21y 7m 23d
  • Gender: Male

I notice no attention to the oiling holes. I attack these with a 3mm burr and elongate them quite a bit on the mains and in one direction on the bigends. I even elongate the holes in the block to match the bearings. You also need to make sure all holes in the crank are centred to the bearing.

I first did this on a Expensive Daewoo 202 years ago to make the bigends survive a bit better. I found a noticible difference on the bigends doing this.

I was also looking at a bugatti crank on youtube a while back and saw they did pretty much the same thing. I would put up picks but I cant get them to the 33kb size.

Edited by turbotrana
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  • Member For: 21y 7m 23d
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http://imgur.com/4TN25Cy

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This is what I mean. This is the mains on an ED crank in a drift engine that takes alot of punishment. You will see that the mains hole is not really centred. You only do this to get better oil to the bigends as mains dont suffer but bigends do.

It will lower the oil pressure a bit but that is not a bad thing cause I found with good oil mods you can run 40psi under load and all will still be good depending on the motor and how things are setup.

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  • in the mid....not the bum like some
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  • Member For: 11y 6m 30d
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They're different.?

When doing my motor I got a couple B series and a couple F series housings and it was apparent that the FG ones were casted a bit better resulting in better flow.

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Liverpool

I wasn't aware that there were any differences Skids, so no I've just used my std housing with Fabre Gears, ($660 I think I got ripped)..

I see what you mean Tranna, we checked that they line up and they do, and obviously chamfered the hole but did not elongate it as you have mentioned, it's all together now so it's something to keep in mind for next time I guess, there's a few things I would do differently if I do it again..

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KPM1500's arrived, with data haha I've never had data to go off so I'm excited to see how they go

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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 11y 7m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Liverpool

Also, for future reference, a Complete STD Piston, Rod, Pin and rings weighs 1233g and the new Mahle and Manley combo, complete with rings and Pin weighs 1172g...

But the stock flexplate weighs in around 2268g and the Attomic weighs 5150g!!!

And I also sprayed my Rocker cover just using Supercheap Auto colour matched Spray can, same colour as the car, I'm not to stressed what It looks like tbh, but it came out alright

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  • Sandtrap Motorsport
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  • Member For: 15y 11m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

When doing my motor I got a couple B series and a couple F series housings and it was apparent that the FG ones were casted a bit better resulting in better flow.

Sweet. As I changed over to a FG one when building my motor :)

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  • Member For: 10y 6m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

I was actually pretty impressed when I used this stuff....

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I used it to do a few repairs on my lower front bumper and they turned out pretty good.

Even the colour matched, which I was a little worried about cause it was mixed by a girl at Supacheap who didn't seem confident in what she was doing.

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Liverpool

So, back peddling abit, while going over everything for the final torque obviously the crank is getting harder and harder to turn, but it was a little hard for comfort.. Now obviously we test fitted everything earlier on in the build, but this is the first time with everything at full torque including rods, piston rings etc.. We decided to investigate further, this required the whole bottom end to come apart again..

We found that most of the bearings have been marked/polished on the back edge

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Went on to measure each tunnel and journal.. The journals are perfect to what we wanted them machined to, but the tunnel seemed to be slightly elongated, with there being 0.001" difference between horizontal measurements and vertical, then 0.0015" with the bearings installed, so with an already tight clearance then once fully torqued and squashing more, there's sweet feck all clearance, causing the marked bearings, and slightly tight crank... Std main cap torque is 62ftlb and ARP is 90ftlb, this is quite possibly causing the 0.001" discrepancy...

So it's going back for tunnel/line boring.. Should of listened to that Bellend bloke???

I also looked into the Oil pump situation, Ford have the same part# throughout BA-FG, the parts guy, said generally if it's altered then they will have a new listing, but it's possible that the new design has just superseded the original, do you have any pictures Skids??

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