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Actuator Waste Gate And Solenoid Valve For Dummies


"Captain Retard"

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  • Member For: 10y 9m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

Thanks CHLAXN , the car is running nice and smooth.

The reason I asked the above question is due to what seems to be a drop off in boost pressure according to the autometer gauge fitted.

When I bought the car I'm sure it's boost was peaking at just over 5psi.

It's now only going to 4psi and tapers off at higher revs.

I've done the WD40 trick with the solenoid valve twice and noticed that the gauge would show up 2-3psi on mid throttle (where as before it didn't)

The other question was that shouldn't the BA Typhoons boost to about 8psi ?

Like I said the car runs smooth, idle is good etc.

I'm just trying to figure out if the solenoid valve or waste gate actuator or both are the issue.

My only other thought is the gauge is giving me a false reading.

Thanks again.

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  • Member For: 10y 9m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

I'm at work killing time but off tomorrow and will start looking at things.

Good point with the filter, it looked OK a month ago but will inspect again.

Might replace it just to be sure.

Cheers!

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  • Member For: 10y 9m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

When I bought the car I had a quick look at it and it's been really dusty around here the last few weeks with all these westlys( my pool is full of dirt)

Just got me thinking that's all, I like simple solutions!

Like you said its worth a look.

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  • Member For: 11y 7m 15d
  • Gender: Male

The basics of it are that the spring in the actuator is aided by the air that's feed to it. So the spring should hopefully be strong enough to hold to a certain level then add the air to open it up and control the boost.

Also how quick it allows boost to bleed back out, hence interrupter style solenoids

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  • Member For: 10y 9m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

LOOK WHAT I FOUND !!!evepy6us.jpgy8y9y5a4.jpg

Checked all the vacuum hoses today and down at the back of the engine found the above.

It's a T junction for the boost gauge and BOV. It was totally perished and crumbling apart.

I'm surprised the gauge read at all !

When I bought the car about a month ago it was reading just over 5psi at WOT on the gauge.

Lately that dropped to 4psi.

Now with it fixed I'm getting 8psi on the gauge and then it drops to about 5-6psi as revs rise.

As this T junction is between the inlet manifold and BOV it may have affected the BOVs performance a bit.

Sadly the cars performance seems about the same LOL !

Checked the air filter and it looks pretty dirty so I'm going to order a K&N filter now.

When I get a chance I will remove the heat shield and have a good look at the rest of the lines. Also will remove the front bumper for a minor repair and check the rest of the hoses.

Thanks for the help WILKO !

I know my way around pre-80s engines pretty well but these modern engines have bloody lines everywhere LOL !!!!

Edited by Tex Scrotum rides again
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  • Member For: 10y 9m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Shellharbour NSW

HOLD THE BOAT !!!

Just checked the part number on the air filter already in the car, it's a FRAM AIR HOG.

So it's reusable ..... Cheering !!!

At first glance it looked like a K&N that's why I sussed it out.

Never heard of FRAM but it looks pretty good.... Any thoughts???

I've used K&N on my bikes and cars for years.

They end up paying for themselves pretty quickly especially if you keep your cars as long as I do !

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