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What else would be required to go from manual to zf.

Built tailshaft, cross member, shifter mount.

Ecu and wiring harness seem more difficult.
I'm guessing I would need to swap to a auto ecu, and get the harness to plug in.

 

To post above.

88db704b1958792dab7267735944265b.jpg

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney
7 hours ago, gaz097 said:

What else would be required to go from manual to zf.

Built tailshaft, cross member, shifter mount.

Ecu and wiring harness seem more difficult.
I'm guessing I would need to swap to a auto ecu, and get the harness to plug in.

 

To post above.

88db704b1958792dab7267735944265b.jpg

Is it good for 550 BTA rwkw ie. Kebab watts or real rwkw?

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Like any zf its torque that kills them. The power/torque is limited to keep them alive. Look at the torque/power figures quoted below.

Albeit manual I make 1300nm(so probably 1150Nm in auto language) and last time rolled of the dyno at a low 440rwkw as I had my boost controller setup wrong.

Could very easily kill a so called 500kw rated box. ffb2513dd3ae5dca93726759a259bc58.jpg

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No argument with any of that

My point was more that I wouldn't buy anything off BTA based on what I've read/heard about their tuning results/record, I'm imagining a sort of RVO of ZF's 

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