Shockworks Coilovers - Installation, Impressions & Pics

**MA91CK** · 29/09/14 09:45 PM

I beleiveit was a bit of both, but mainly for the payload. Hence why the tub can still be removed and a stell one put on, they marketed it as a tradies ute. The Expensive Daewoo has a one piece body and full IRS and they call them a sports ute

turbotrana · 04/10/14 12:24 AM

How much for supply F & R?

**Rab** · 04/10/14 12:53 AM

Was $2k - probably still is

**.Stripes.** · 04/10/14 01:16 AM

Cost me $2k for the full coilover kit and $80 shipping to WA.

insanegrunt · 16/11/14 08:32 AM

Great write up paul30!

Was very helpful

**k31th** · 17/11/14 04:30 AM

$2k is pretty good for coilovers (in an Australian car), ridiculously expensive if you're looking at a japanese car!

Z2TT · 27/11/14 02:22 PM

How comfortable are shockworks suspension compared to a factory strut with king springs for example?

**.Stripes.** · 27/11/14 09:45 PM

On the softest setting it's very comfortable, not too dissimilar to OEM...only handles much better. You're welcome to come for a spin in the GT if you want to get an idea?

**Rab** · 27/11/14 10:34 PM

As ^^

You will feel the road/bumps a little bit more, but the car feels them a lot less (if that makes sense)

You'll know if you go over some corrugations etc, but the car will act as if they weren't there.

It's not really any less comfortable than the OEM, just a little different. You'll notice a lot more, but not in a jarring way.

That's at cruising/commuting speed and conditions.

As soon as you give them a bit of load or weight they immediately become so, so much more comfortable than the OEM's. A bit of throttle and the road just seems to smooth out and corners seem to increase in radius

Edited 27/11/14 10:38 PM by Rab

**bdazla** · 09/04/16 03:56 AM

On ‎7‎/‎07‎/‎2014 at 7:47 PM, Paul30 said:

Following on from the Coilovers thread, just though I'd share some of the experiences I had with installing the Shockworks Coilovers and my first impressions compared to standard.

First up though, a big thanks Brett O'Brien, the owner of Shockworks, for sharing his knowledge and time - especially for taking a few my calls on a Sunday. Well beyond the call of duty - and happy to do so too.

I've thrown up a few pics of the install and my day on the tools yesterday (been a while) - from the iPhone, so they're not the greatest.

Front Strut Installation

I followed the Replacing Springs and Shocks thread in the Sticky section, so won't go into too much detail here, just a few pics and some tips that might be useful.

First step was to pop the bonnet and get access to the 3 x 17mm strut bolts. For the drivers side, 2 x 12mm bolts hold the radiator header tank in place and this easily rotates out of the way. Passenger side, I just took off the intake section just after the airbox. Next step was to loosen the top 3 strut bolts, the wheels and jack up the front end under the cross member, not forgetting the axle stands.

With the wheels off undo the front A arm bolt then the lower strut bolt using an 18mm socket. Loosening the swaybar links had me beat for a few minutes until I realised both an 18 mm and 8mm spanner were needed. Push down on the lower arm and with a couple of twists and turns, the strut slides out pretty easily.

Install is a reversal and just as easy. Front end done in 2 hours

Rear Shock and Spring Installation

I found the back a little fiddlier to do than the front. Jack up the back end in the middle, wheels off and axle stands in place so they don't inhibit movement of the IRS cradle.

A 15mm bolt holds the top of the shock, 18mm for the bottom bolt and some brute force and ignorance to get the shock out.

As the springs didn't fall out, I took the safe path and used spring compressors to get them out. With enough down force on the rear hub you should be able to pop them out.

Now, I was a bit baffled by the adjustable rear spring seat - which is actually sits on top of the spring - as confirmed by a call to Brett. Keep in place the lower spring boot and remove the upper boot. There's a small metal tab (only a few mm) that protrudes from the chassis rail where the spring sits this and needs to be hammered flat. You can see from the pics how the adjustable spring cap sits.

With the spring in place it's time for the shock to go in. Line up and tighten the bottom bolt first. It might look as though it's not in properly (see pic) but it will be. Wheels on, job done and, like the front, took me 2 hours.

First impressions

I had an initial case of buyers' remorse as the comfortable, floaty, wafty feel was instantly gone. Replaced by firmness, feedback, urgency and a sense of purpose. All of a sudden there's an instant connection with the car. It feels so much more nimble, agile and responsive. Punching hard through some high speed corners took away any remorse that I had only minutes earlier. This is how a performance car should handle. Ride is firmer, but not uncomfortable. The best word I'd use to describe it is connected.

Ride height has dropped 10mm at the front from 365mm to 355mm and 20mm at the rear from 380mm to 360mm. I'll give the springs some more time to settle and if not, may drop down to 350mm all round.

Cheers

Paul