327 Rwkw 760Nm Xt One Tonne Ute (Was A V8)

[genuine honest person]

gave the ute a little run around caloundra ,and the ute handles so much better with the turbo 6 than the v8 .there is no argument the 6 is way better ,lighter steering and it feels more balanced .the steering is sharper and it changes directions with ease ,where before it felt like a boat rocking side to side . the reason I took it for a drive is so that the brake place could have a look at the abs module and the hard lines .so I could book it in to get them custom made to suit the ute .they are going to also bleed the brakes as well and change the fluids .hope they get it to work

[barnz]

I hope they know what they are doing mate as its a weird one. Was having a look at some diagrams last night and It appears the rear ABS sensors are different on a ute. Also for the life of me I can not find anything thing on BA's having the module on anything other than the canbus. So unless you got some left over AU one from the parts bin I cant see why the 3ch one in your car put you into limp mode. Even if it needed programing the vss is its own output with its own wire so id sort of expect that part to work. Its either that or the pcm needed a tweak to accept the 3ch. Im definitely a little out of my depth on this one.

What your trying to achieve is putting the sedans traction control into a ute, for which I would use bf ute brake lines, which should be close if not spot on. Some reprogramming will be required to correct your speedo as your tyre size and diff ratio have changed from the sedans.

The other possible solution is to ditch the trac and use a 3ch module from a ba xr6t ute. Im yet to work out what the difference is between the 3ch module you have and one out of a turbo ute, if any. I have a sneaking suspicion that its different comms pins and different wires in the looms, but cant find anything concrete on that.

Edited 07/07/14 09:29 PM by barnz

[genuine honest person]

thanks mate ,I will se if it works today .going to go there at 8 am to get it all hooked up .wish me luck

[barnz]

I really hope they know their sh*t and have the gear to sort it out. I really do mate lol.

Also in regards to legality which you mentioned in another thread, cant see adding the trac being an issue. Would have more dramas trying to get rid of the abs I would imagine. As always speak to engineer, then another. 2nd opinions are always good when it comes to that stuff.

Edited 07/07/14 10:05 PM by barnz

[genuine honest person]

thanks mate ,but thank god it all works .the brakes are awesome for just standard items .the abs for the first time actually stops the car fast ,and the traction control works too .the hand brake is good too .I said to the guy that took it for a test drive watch the boost .as he tried out the traction control I shouted stop ,but it was to late the boost was at 23 psi (at about 3000 rpm ) he backed of fast but sh*t I have a 7 psi turbosmart actuator .why did the actuator not open ? could that have done damage to the engine . I have checked the oil there is no milk shake ,and no rattles or weird noises

[barnz]

Holy sh*te, well its awesome its all good but fark, 23psi on a stock ba bottom end is probably pushing it. 7psi means it will start to crack at 7. Might not be fully open to 14. Well it would have chucked a rod if it was going to. Dont do it again lol. How it didnt hit boost cut I dont know. You got your factory boost solenoid hooked up hey? Got rid of the eboost?

Also there is preload and sh*te to consider. I dont know enough about setting a new turbo up so I couldnt really say exactly why it hit 23.

Edit: do know if they reprogrammed you tyre size and diff ratio. Coz speedo. Maybe check it against gps?

Edited 08/07/14 06:36 AM by barnz

[genuine honest person]

the speedo reads true speed ,had the gps in the car

I have it booked in at redcliffe dyno for Wednesday next week .they can sort out all the hard stuff .lol

but when it did hit 23 psi it felt like a rocket launching .just about felt like hitting the driver in the head ,he did get a blasting .

[barnz]

Yeah that's silly, a little linelock would have sufficed

[genuine honest person]

tomorrow getting the tail shaft made at farrows shafting at nambour .when he asked me does it have to be a twin shaft ,because he believes he can make a single shaft just as strong .he said most high performance cars have single ,like xy falcons and hq .do not know which way to go now twin or single ? I would rather have the twin but then there are more parts to ware out .centre bering etc .and the single shaft has only universals .but is it as strong

[discostig]

I was reading one of my own threads the other day and someone posted that single piece tailshafts let go at high RPM whereas two piece have built in vibration dampening, think that was it anyway.

edit - Here it is, our own WA bloke Tony

http://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/66211-police-pack-option/

I would suggest the alluminium tailshaft applies to the Ute as it has a steel one piece from the factory (I think)and the ally one may give it a slightly higher safety margin for high speed.

When tailshafts get too long they let go at high RPM. Hence why the EA to EL cars were speed limited.

By going to a two piece in the BA onwards sedans solves the problem of tailshafts letting go at high speeds. So I doubt that info relates to the sedan.


Maybe ring up AMCAP or Conventries and see whether the electronic parts catalog can shed some more light.

Edited 08/07/14 11:03 AM by -Stever-