Gremlins In Daughters 2005 Ba Xr6

[01txr]

Checked stalk wiring from what I can see it looks good. No damaged wires.

Had battery on charge all day yesterday and night. Tried to start again still the same.

Held crank whilst moving stalk around.

Pulled it down and back and it started.

Released it and its starts as normal again.

Will pull stalk off later when I get some spare time to give a final verdic on the cause.

All this because of that piece of sh*t.

Daughters happy but not letting use it till I locate the cause. Not having her get stuck out on the road somewhere.

Its a good thing it happened whist is was driving.

A big thanks on all the helpful advise guys.

These computer cars sometimes makes me wonder if its worthwhile.

My xr6t has been on a slow engine build for now 4 years due to the financial situation.

Broke number 6 rod due to feeding too much power into it though soft tune at 12psi on to4z turbo set up.

Ever since been thinking of building another v8 TD cortina instead.

Anyway my xr6t should be good with its new motor.

Got the 1400hp driveshafts just need to finish the head and save for tailshaft and diff center.

Still along way off unless I find a better paying job.

Will fill you in on the stalk once I get time to get it out.

Cheers

[barnz]

Well that is properly strange. At least you know where to look now. Pics of problem when you find the exact cause.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

My first sign of a fault at the indicator stalk was the "lights on" reminder logo flashing in the lcd screen. Then one day the headlights turned off when I indicated left. This prompted me to suss it out and solder in some new bits of more flexible wire.

Pain in the ass fiddly job, I believe the replacement part is cheap but my car had only 50,000 km on it so I wouldn't put much faith in the replacement bits anyway.

[01txr]

Just had a quick look on replacement on eBay.

None listed for sedan but some ute and wagon ones, not sure why there would be differance between sedan and ute though, wagon with rear wiper and squirter yes.

Non gen $174

Gen $370 plus.

Rediculess, and if its a build fault it's pretty said charging that much.

Here's hoping whatever the cause of these faults is repairable by solder or replacing wires.

Not long after daughter purchased this falcon the ignition failed.

Called Ford and they wanted a rediculess price for complete bare column.

Searched what problem could be and found its a common manufacture fault where the back of ignition falls out.

Reassemble push back in and knock retaining tabs over hard how it should of been done from factory.

Starting to understand why people are moving away from ford.

I'm loyal and hope ford start making improvements.

[SuckSqueezeBangBlow]

Maybe sedan has auto headlights and utes don't? Not sure though

[01txr]

No they have auto and non auto for utes?

[barnz]

If they didn't have such a bloody good engine in the i6t pretty sure people would have dumped them years ago. No love for the 5.4 and Miami came to late. Bang for buck they are the best cars in the world. Nothing comes close for performance vs price. Build quality does let them down though. What do you expect for the dollars though?

[01txr]

Barnz so true mate.

Turbo failures due to poor service by Ford.

Poor quality turbine housings that crack fitted with small internal flapper valves that can't handle exhaust mods.

Piss poor conrods in BA xr6t

Piss poor 4spd auto & 5spd manuals

Coil packs dying

Ignition switches falling out

Combination switches causing faults

Front wheel bearings failing

Diff bushes

Dual climate rods failing

Way under braked

At least the idea was great, pitty wasn't refined better earlier.

Just did a search on eBay on the steering columns and one seller is advertising a BA update column to rectify the ignition barrel issues of the BA design column.

Yet Ford wants to still sting people $1000 plus fitting and coding on top.

This really pisses me as I've been a loyal fan supporter for like over 25 years.

I'd never switch to Gmh as they are worst plus owned by gm who's owned by the US government.

And bang for buck there is no replacement for the falcon.

Maybe I need to start trying to source a old TD cortina to fit my new engine and t56 into for when my one starts giving these problems.

Hell $1000 steering column I could nearly buy a good TD cortina for that.

Sorry guys, I do love my BA XR6t just getting pissed over all the issues I've had and what daughter car has had. And what I'll be looking at for mine when its ignition, combination switch, front bearings, lock actuators etc fail.

Me breaking the conrod is my fault as can't expect a std engineered engine to handle the power I threw at it.

But that would not have happened if my oem turbo didn't fail due to poor oil flow from unserviced filter. And finding numerous cracks in the turbine housing prompting me to fit a to4z setup instead of the cheap oem replacement.

My t5 not handling a tune exhaust and cooler.

Fitted blueprinted t56 from Mal woods.

The brakes where woeful in std tune

So fitted APRacing brakes.

Should of bought a BF F6 straight up as it had cost me a lot more then what I could of bought at the time.

Paid $29,000 for mine and had Ford Springwood offer me the ex gm's car for $50,000 neat.

Shillolette BF F6 t56 full optioned with 5,000k's on clock.

Stupid me thinking buy cheaper and spend rest on performance.

Should of researched better.

[barnz]

Yeah bf2 onwards seem to be alot better and quite frankly the early ba's seem like junk but it is where this all started and we wouldn't have f6's and g6et's without them. What power were you making to break a rod? not to diss your tuna but there is alot of 400kw ba's hanging in just fine which is probably down to good tuning rather than having "freak" motor with magical rods.

Edited 20/04/14 07:08 AM by barnz

[01txr]

Tuned by self using SCT racer pro software.

Afr's perfect, timing perfect no detonations, no evidence of detonation on pistons.

Soft tuned with slow boost ramps and max 12psi.

Is comparo 2 friends with BF F6's one tuned by bayside tuning the other by High Torque

Both beaten by mine, the first made 420rwkw the second was his 600rwhp 447rwkw street tune.

All cars where manual t56.

The second car being near identical in acceleration except he'd lose a car length plus due to lag of his GT45 with 47 internals.

Once on boost it was nothing in it.

There is a possibility the rod may of had a flaw as grain structure doesn't look the best.

Plus prior to Me purchasing it, the orig owner said he had Romano tune it, drilled nizpro injectors, nizpro valve springs, center muffler removed.

Said was hopeless not to ever use him as could not get car right.

Then can't recall the tuner he mentioned and reckon mended but said to use them.

Made 275rwkw.

I wasn't very happy with it had a random miss at idle, was thirsty recording 13 liters per 100k highway. And occasional start up problem where it would splutter shake and not respond to throttle.

Engine light on.

Ran 14.1 Etta @ 104mph 2.6sec 60ft.

So from there I purchased the xcal 2 and racer pro software.

Got a start off tune from Matt at BP Racing.

Had input from Danny (Headsex) and ihatetoads on tuning the new Siemens Dekas. Got it sorted.

Smooth as silk idle I could not even tell the engine was ticking over. Dropped it down to 400rpm with ease. Raised back up to 650 to avoid stalls.

Eco dropped to 8.8 liters per 100 and et down to 13.5 @ 108mph 60ft still the same but started axle hopping due to coming down hard on bump stops.

Next track time I upgraded to the 3.5" xforce exhaust, HDI cooler, plazmaman plenum & T56

Huge wheelspin, no axle hop as chopped bumps down. 3rd gear pinged, got off it slotted 4th slowly fed back in to run12.92 at 116mph.

Walbro in tank pump 2/3 tank full.

Shouldn't of got fuel surge but it did?

Didn't run it again since.

Then Turbo started to squeal so fitted custom high mount TO4z setup. Process West surge tank and single 044. Logging fuel showed it was fine.

Afr's perfect.

As said dropped boost down to 12psi with soft boost ramping for the TO4z.

On estimate it was making close to what it was with oem turbo but The oem turbo was running at 18psi could not control at less.

Highway eco dropped to 8.2 liters per 100k

It was making positive boost at 1100rpm 6th gear.

12psi by 1800-1900 rpm.