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1/2 Hole Preload..?


xr6tee9

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  • Member For: 11y 2m 8d
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can make banging noises with overboost, then it will go totally quiet

nah, no banging noises, just seems to flutter more than I remember when coming off boost

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So what the other guys aren't saying is that you are running too much boost and you will probably lean it out and destroy the motor without a tune...

Fix the preload issue and have the car tuned so you know that the mixtures are safe etc...

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  • Member For: 11y 2m 8d
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So what the other guys aren't saying is that you are running too much boost and you will probably lean it out and destroy the motor without a tune...

Fix the preload issue and have the car tuned so you know that the mixtures are safe etc...

yeah right.. I wasnt aware the car needed a retune after only changing the compressor wheel...? and the way I see it.. if the actuator was set up originally with the rod coming out on a slight angle and now I have it dead straight out of diaphram, I would only be reducing the preload not increasing it.. put compressor on it today at 10psi , slightly opened it, 15psi and it open with approx 25mm travel..

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So I would say that is your issue, the car only runs 5-6psi at full boost in standard form. I'd say you have an aftermarket actuator (the original ones aren't adjustable from memory) so any change to the preload could dramatically change the amount of boost being commanded.

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  • Member For: 11y 2m 8d
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So I would say that is your issue, the car only runs 5-6psi at full boost in standard form. I'd say you have an aftermarket actuator (the original ones aren't adjustable from memory) so any change to the preload could dramatically change the amount of boost being commanded.

CAR HAS 369.8RWKW.. hdi cooler kit, injectors, fuel pump, 4in stainless dump, hi flo 4in-3.5-4in cat, 2.5in dual xforce. pod in box, 2x custom tunes, SCT X2, 12psi actuator, ported wastegate and bigger flapper..etc etc.. running 12 psi tune, tuned by bruce heinrich

Edited by xr6tee9
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So again, either fix the preload issue and get a dyno run to make sure the AFR's etc are safe or take the car to Bruce and get him to tune it with the new preload setting and see if it works right.

If you have a stock motor then it won't take too much to bend a rod or burn through a piston if the car is running lean due to more boost and no corrected fuel map.

more flutter means more boost, so you need to address that with these cars. The ECU may be pulling timing out when it senses any knock or pinging but that is a poor band-aid measure and not one you want to rely on for a long time.

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  • Member For: 11y 2m 8d
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So again, either fix the preload issue and get a dyno run to make sure the AFR's etc are safe or take the car to Bruce and get him to tune it with the new preload setting and see if it works right.

If you have a stock motor then it won't take too much to bend a rod or burn through a piston if the car is running lean due to more boost and no corrected fuel map.

more flutter means more boost, so you need to address that with these cars. The ECU may be pulling timing out when it senses any knock or pinging but that is a poor band-aid measure and not one you want to rely on for a long time.

thanks senna-T, finally my question answered "more flutter means more boost" most informative so far with more than half arsed answers.. im in the process of purchasing a boost and oil pressure guage (think the autometer cobolts look great), I have noticed the flutter b4 repairs, but only when gunning it off lights, boosting up then backing off hard.. and as I said in previous post.. if the rod is coming directly out of actuator and was previously on a slight angle it would actually reduce the preload (do you agree??).. anyway.. none the less I will do a oil and filter change and get it down to bruce to do a followup tune.. thanks for the info and cheers for your help.. by the way its a BFII update..

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honestly I'm not sure on the angle re pre-load. From memory the actuator rod extends to open the gate bypassing the exhaust gas and slowing the turbine. In this way of thinking the rod could be on an angle because the swing arm was half open meaning that the pre load on the actuator was incorrect in the first place.

but I'm no turbo/actuator expert...

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