How To Get Power To The Ground (Traction)

[xr6tee9]

just wondering how anyone else gets their mod power to the ground..

just plugged in the sct box today and realised there is 2 custom tunes,

(I have only recently bought the car) so anyway, the car has been running on the 'less' power tune,

still breaks traction and steps sideways and boosts up, throws you back in the seat.

but having seen a 'more' power tune on there, curiosity got the better of me (raises eyebrows, lol)

so I retuned it and went for a drive, CRIKEY!!!..... the thing is wheel spinning all over the place!!

yes it goes harder after you get past the wheel spin (even with traction/stability on) but look at the

ground lost whilst spinning.. so I retuned it to 'less' ..! the 'more' is 369.8 rwkw and the 'less' is 337rwkw

[sexual harrassment panda]

better tyres and suspension as well as less 23 in the mid

[bossmang]

wide fat sticky tyres

end thread /

[Rab]

Not sure of your dyno sheet, but one tune that isn't balls deep can have the same power, but be driveable compared to another?

A 400kw tune can be more tractable than a 350kw tune at times if done right?

Or a 350kw tune can be scarier to drive than a 400kw tune if done wrong?

[arronm]

Fat tyres and feed the power.

[jas98]

need one of these

Edited 04/02/14 03:26 PM by jas98

[xr6tee9]

Not sure of your dyno sheet, but one tune that isn't balls deep can have the same power, but be driveable compared to another?

A 400kw tune can be more tractable than a 350kw tune at times if done right?

Or a 350kw tune can be scarier to drive than a 400kw tune if done wrong?

spoke to previous owner and he says the more tune has more timing, (but he doesnt seem very mechanically minded).. car was tuned by heinrich down south in adelaide'' the more tune is all wheel spin when you sink your boot but better response easing the power on, as with the less tune is good sinking the boot but rather on/off on power delivery easing into it, especially from 60k's on (like it spools then stops then spools again..) hard to explain..

[aiboart]

1-

Buy the best all purpose road tyres available on the market.

Otherwise just don't bother.

2-

Keep the factory springs.

Increasing the spring rates costs grip.

3-

Stick to factory size wheels.

Wagon wheels cost you grip, comfort, acceleration, deceleration, refinement and bulk $$$.

Steam roller wheels can add grip, but, in these cars geometry becomes an issue and that in turn costs grip.

4-

Buy high end monotubes dampers.

These will keep your wheels where they should be, in contact with the road.

Otherwise just don't bother.

5-

Look at the factory standard torque curve. Note that it is dead flat. Note that this is perfection.

In simple terms a dead flat torque curve eliminates jerk (that really is a technical term) as you sweep through a (fixed) gear ratio and this is very, very, very good for keeping the contact patch stuck to the road.

The more marginal the grip conditions (say a wet road) the more the level of grip is critically dependant on an absence of jerk.

Removing jerk however also removes that visceral sensation of 'punch in the back', which is boring for some... those that literally like spinning their wheels and going no-where...

If are going to tune your car and you are after grip rather than 'punch in the back', then you need to create a dead flat torque curve, albeit at a higher level than the factory model.

6-

Drive smoooooth.

Wait for weight transfer to occur, which increases grip... and then feed in yet more torque.

RPM-threshold and turbo-lag can be your friends in low grip conditions, exploit them.

Both RPM-threshold and turbo-lag add a time function to the torque delivery, which in turn reduces jerk and increases grip.

Nearly all modern cars use digital time functions on the throttle fly-by-wire outputs in order to reduce jerk.

The aim here is to preserve the adhesive of the contact patch (to stop the car spinning off the road), and, to stop jerk damaging the driveline (for warranty reasons).

[turbotrana]

Our boosted up Falcons are putting out power figures in the Supercar region and in many cases laying down sub 10 second qtrs. Better than most Supercar crap.

Take a look at the tyre treadwear rating on a Supercar and they are in the sub 100 range. I think some are in the 60 range, consider M/T drag radials are rated at zero and your average family sedan is over 300. The commonly used nittos are around 200.

So if you want to go anywhere in these cars without skating around too much forget the Nittos, you will need some $700- $1000 (each) Michellins that are used on the supercars and rated at 60 treadwear and last about 10000 km if lucky.

[jacobmitchell92]

Nittos work fine. Unless you want to race your car every weekend there is no need to spend 700-800 on tires.

Go invos on the front and nt05 on the rear. Once they are warm they will grip well