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Building A Fg Turbo Performance Engine


MattH12

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 21d

Hi,

Just wondering if anyone can give me some info on what are the best performance parts to put in/build a fg turbo engine?

My car is a 2010 fg a couple of weeks ago it done a oil pump which sucks. Before it done that it had 437kw atw( stage 3 kit put on it ,(exhaust, injectors etc as you guys already know) plus had the turbo upgraded to a GTX35. So now I am thinking of building the engine ( valve springs,conrods,cam,pistons,rods etc) so I am needing some tech help as what to put in it and what needs to be done? I would like to be able to go 550 rwkw to 650 rwkw maybe more if I can afford it.

Cheers

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  • Member For: 13y 10d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Blue Mountains, NSW

+1 for what needs to be done for reliable 550atw

Spool rebuild kit, arp head studs and atomic oil pump gears?Need an atomic oil pump or just the gears that are a problem?

Bad luck btw mate, mine has 457atw at the moment and you've really got me concerned now haha.

Edited by TomT
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  • Member For: 10y 10m 21d

Thanks for the info Tom. Yeah it was a bit of a freak engine. I have got prices from the tuner and they want to just build a complete engine. My mate is a mechanic so he is going to put it all together for me so I am trying to gather everybodys opinions from around Australia what people have had success with and what parts they have not. Instead of getting someone to build it and they say my engines are the best as they all do.

Cheers

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  • Member For: 21y 8m 16d
  • Gender: Male

My mate had a mechanic friend (just out of apprenticeship) who offered to build his performance engine. My help was asked for when this "mechanic" couldn't work out why the engine would not turn when he bolted it all up.

Now lets start.

Crank wouldn't turn cause the big end caps were put the wrong way around

Upon disassembly the pistons were on the wrong way around on the rods

The top and bottom ring clearances were the wrong way around .

Just food for thought.

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  • Member For: 14y 10m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth Wa

I just built my engine for fg xr6t b a few months ago but I wanted real reliability and so I went brand new Fg block new crank manley I beams (1500hprated)billet oil pump gears manley forged pistons and upgraded pins, nizpro girdle, arp 2000 head studs full reckon head crow valve springs and retainers arp 2000 head studs new cams standard with machining etc but I wanted pretty good gear in the engine I could of saved a few k going spool gear but didnt want that personal preference you get what you pay for in the end good luck with it

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 19d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

turbotrana makes some good points but I was thinking more along the lines of what sort of clearances is he going to use and based on what experience, there are a quite a few builders that can these days build a strong a strong engine that is not noisy, which means the knock sensors can still be used for safety. If you go by the common clearances for piston to bore then most the time you have a noisy engine.

A good engine builder will assemble an engine several times and get the clearances to where they require, a guy doing this at home is not going to in most cases dummy assemble, then strip and send the parts away again possibly several times until the correct specifications are meet

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 21d

Ha ha good comment turboboink. Thanks for the info handrl. If you don't mind me asking how much did it cost to build the engine?

What sort of rwkw did you get out of it? Did you build it or did you get someone in Perth to build it for you?

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