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Lowering Ute Whilst Remainaing Able To Tow


(Locky)

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 25d
  • Gender: Male
Ok first off I have been doing a LOT of reading as I dont like doing one of these typical 'new guy posts'



Im looking at buying a BA/BF XR6T ute in the coming weeks for a new tow/daily. Inevitably im at least going to lower it and put wheels on. It needs to still be able to tow my track car as I'm getting over my VT v6 wagon. Besides that Ive had quite a few imports, mostly nissan, so Im used to the ease of just buying decent coilovers, rear camber and toe arms and you are set suspension wise for a basic setup so rear leafs are a bit of an unknown



Just after some suggestions/clarification.


Front

-This seems straight forward as im guessing coilovers would be a little too expensive/ overkill for what im after.

-I think something just like a king spring and guessing its best to replace the shock. anything else I should be looking at doing whilst im under there?


Rear-

This is where im getting a bit lost

-It seems lowering blocks are a really cheap, but pretty dodgy solution

-I know Kings springs do a replacement leaf, but unsure how this would go height/handle towing

-Reset leafs seems to be a common way of going. I suppose it depends on how low they are set too but is this still a 'dodgy' way of doing it ? Will it still be able to handle the load.


I was thinking lowering and getting some kind of air assist in the back when towing. Both my old tow cars suffer from the usual nose in sky rear tucking syndrome with the trailer/car behind

Id be loolng it just the basic ones that you use a compressor/servo to inflate.

Can these still be used/fit with lowered/ reset leafs ?


Is there anything else besides shocks I should do at the rear as well?




Sorry for the million questions but thought Id try and get a straight answer as I have been reading for hours and seem to be going in circles. Im really just trying to get a rough figure of exactly what I can/need to do so I can budget to get it all done pretty much straight after purchasing the car, as the cost too will also effect the budget to get the car in the first place.

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  • 2 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 10y 10m 25d
  • Gender: Male

Not really an update, but bought a BF2 today.

Was thinking resets, being 380 drive in/drive out or 250 If I remove/reinstall but still a bit concerned about this. So leaning towards king springs as I can get rear set of replacement leaves and front springs for ~$550.

Main question is has anyone used them with load assist bags

my main concern is "These bags need minimum 65mm space to sit deflated which is about the bump stop height"
So if I am looking to get springs that sit the car 2in lower in the rear, if I have greater than the 115mm from diff to bump stop currently it should be fine, or are the king springs a different shape/softer

Ie something like this

$(KGrHqZHJ!4FIVHBchoUBSFvlV7Esg~~60_57.J

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  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 17y 9m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

All sorted mate.

As you have read the bags need a minimum amount of space before they are fully compressed and start to get damaged. THe firestone bags basically replace the bump stop but you need to keep a minimum of 10psi in them at all times.

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  • Member For: 10y 10m 25d
  • Gender: Male

Thanks for the clearup, used to forums where you can delete your own stuff

So as long as the new springs arnt riding on bump stops it should be sweet (which hopefully full replacement springs like king super lows wont be doing)

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  • 4 months later...
  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 12y 1m 21d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Griffith NSW

DO NOT BUY THOSE AIRBAGS!

THEY WILL KILL YOUR VEHICLE!

I bought ones like those off ebay for $490 and iv just taken them off after 5 months on my fg XR6T because they're affecting the chassis. They bolt to the bump stop bracket which is on the side of the chassis so any weight they take has been leveraging in on the side of the chassis rail, bending it in a few mm. Thank GOD I haven't been carrying anything heavy only my daily weight of tools & steel tray.

The tightest I could squeeze them down too was 125mm from chassis to axle, -the 75mm bump stop and it cuts out 50mm of suspension travel distance meaning they're always needing high pressure to prevent bottoming out on themselves.

There are some other brands that I'm looking into at the moment that either are alot thinner (Single Convolute), or clamp between the chassis and spring (not axle) which should give full suspension travel and all mount firmly under the chassis.

However ill probably end up getting some stronger springs to give myself more headroom for weight

Just my 2cent's

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  • Member For: 11y 1m 19d

I only tow a caravan with a sedan, and left everything stock......Why not just get a set of Hayman Reece load levellers when you are towing the big load? There is a whole post on towing, with guys towing big boats, may be of interest....load levellers are great for my restricted needs.

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  • Member For: 10y 9m 30d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

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