Rda Vs Dba....how Much Difference Between The 2? Also Brembo Pads...fg

[arronm]

Yeh I use ultimates on the non fast cars with RDA. On the typhoons DBA 5000 and genuine brembo or AP pads

I am not sure the RDA would cope with the beating I give the brakes sometimes

[neil101]

I have T3 on my BA but I fitted the 322mm disc off the BF and I have red stuff pads yes pull up awesome but to harsh on the rotor and have machine the rotor all the time to get rid of the shudder spoke to matt at race brakes and said its the pads not the rotors the cause build up on the rotor which causes the shudder.

I am currently looking and replacing front pads and rotors and I am considering my options Id like to go T3 again but theirs the price the RDA slotted and dimpled don't look bad but like most I'm concerned about longevity of the rotor pad wise think I'm going to give project mu ns400 ago and see how they are

Neil

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

If I would do it again....stay away from RDA if you have a stock car. They make a stupid grinding type noise especially when next to buildings or freway barriers, etc. Anywhere the noise can reverb against a wall.

I was told its just the design of the RDA that causes pad to make noise over the slots. I think if you have a catback or full exhaust its not as noticeable. Pad choice seems the most important cause I had bremtecs and pretty sure they were doing the same thing as you described above (although thought people used red stuff with success?). I dont really thrash my brakes much, so never really noticed the difference between DBA and RDA in terms of brake fade/ performance. But I have only used average brake pads (bremtec endures and wagner pads).

I will definitely try NS400 next round of pads....need to see if they live up to the hype lol and if you can get good deals on T2's (like you can atm) I feel they should be fine for street duties (I have used t3 fronts and new t2 rears). I think the cheapest T3s for turbo are just over $400 and the T2s on ebay for like $280ish.....

Let us know neil if your shudder returns after your new setup...my shudder would return every 5,000kms....so far I've only done 1200kms on the new setup...so still waiting to see if it returns. Also theres a bush that can add to shudder if its torn...think its the front radius arm to chassis bush?

[k31th]

lower control arm bushes, I believe, are the main culprit of brake shudder from a bush perspective... could also be wonky ball joints.

don't use a rough style of pad on expensive rotors Rotors should last a long time (up to 100,000, like mentioned before, but of course that will be limited depending on the type of driving that you do).

Make sure to let your brakes cool correctly when they get "stressed" and you should then have little to no issues with shudder. (as long as installation in the first place of new rotors removed rust from hubs etc).