My Flogged 'bush' - Too Much Hassled To Do At Home + What Othe

[Spoony]

EDIT: Doh, sorry for the fail topic heading haha (engrish much)

So my late 07 BFii XR6T with 205,000kms had a weird squirm and unsettling nature under power and on kick down.

Fulcrum had a look at it form me (as I couldn't tell too much wrong on stands lying on my back). Right (outer tierod?) hymm joint is well flogged, can move the wheel around, so I'd say that is the cause of my unsettling feel + knocks and vibration. The other outer hymm joint/bushes left and right (there are 2 sets each side) are a bit average too with some knock transfered from the wheel when bumped. The front control blade big pushes are also on their way with cracks.

Up front they noticed the lower ball joints also have a little play.

So doing the above cost $650 or so in labour, so wondering how much of a *beep* it would be to do in the garage (mate has a reasonable press to use).

Also wondering in either case if there are any other bits I should do at the same time?

Most bushes are original still, not too bad I don't think for 205,000 pretty hard km's (sees heaps of crap roads, skid pan days etc).

Replacements I know of since I got it (at about 100,000km)

Shocks are now 70,000km old Bilstiens and still feel good at the moment.

Diff bushes are super pro comfort (new design), still good

Rear swaybar D bushes and link pins are Nolathane & farily new (link pin bush looks average already, though hmmm)

Front lower control arm bushes are Superpro.

Edited 14/09/13 09:46 AM by Spoony

[jas98]

at that amount of k's id say do all bushs, also for the rear hymm joints (also called, rose, swivel, ball joint, and just bushs lol) I used some cheap ones on ebay that cost only 88 for all 6 however I cannot find them anymore....it was listed by online performance but seems he has none...maybe tri contacting him?

it saved me over 500 bucks in just those 6 joints as if I was to buy from ford , there road safe brand and I cannot fault them

[Spoony]

Had similar thoughts. Will get very pricey and fast if I just give that to a shop to do.

I had a quick search on ebay and found complete control arms/blades etc. I figure the bushes will still be rubber so not as durable as superpro, but in saying that the factory stuff has lasted this long (rubber).

For example

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-Falcon-BA-BF-FG-Ford-Territory-Series-1-2-Rear-Upper-Rear-Lower-Control-Arm-/360731610773?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fd478e95&_uhb=1

and

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/FORD-TERRITORY-FALCON-SEDAN-XR6-TURBO-XR8-BA-BF-FG-REAR-CONTROL-ARMS-SY-ARMS-HD-/281162357364?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4176951a74&_uhb=1

So for

$480 and a bit of time the rear is done, no press needed just bolt in and out.

While they look OK in the pics, are these sort of parts rubbish and a steer clear thing?

[Ralph Wiggum]

It depends on what your trying to achieve?

Restoring stock handling? Those repo bits are fine but will not last as long as OEM.

Trying to improve handling? Use aftermarket performace parts (IE Superpro) The cost in labour is the dis/reassembly. Bushes are comparatively cheap.

[Spoony]

Yeah I wondered what the ebay arms would last like. If may local, probably from the same mobs that makes the factory ones? Otherwise if from China then max lotto?

Better handling wouldn't be a bad thing, though with the bilsteins originally it wasn't bad I didn't think. I wouldn't think running superpro through it vs rubber would see huge improvement that the shocks did vs stock?

I will cost up all the bushes and go from there though. Will harshness be an issue? I experienced solid side diff bushes once, ewwwwwwwww the didn't stay in long

[jas98]

those control arm with the bushsings/hymm joints are (99% sure) roadsafe brand and them other ones (control blade) im not sure about...could be china

however the control blade bushs are one thing I would change (and spend a little extra on) to super pro or whitline/nolathane as its the best thing I ever did. the factory ones have way to much movemnet causeing knocks and bad handleing

[Spoony]

Good info, sounds like complete control arms (ala ebay) and super-pro inserts for the control arms are the go and most cost effective. Jas, was that your reply on fordforums also (I'm guessing?).

I didn't realise though that the cradle would have to be dropped to get the control arms out, that would be a bit of *beep* to do on the ground.

[Spoony]

So the complete ebay control arms are new but made in China jobbies, so will avoid going that route. I know the outer bushes of the rear control arms are rose/hymm type and flog out easy, the inter ones are conventional piviot bushes yeah? Do they tend to not flog out? Considering leaving them if they don't, worry about them when diff bushes eventually go again or when I reco the shocks or something

[Spoony]

Following on from above, I got priced on getting the rear completely done (super pro). So lower and upper rear control arm bushes (inner and outer), toe control arm inner and outer and control blades. $1650 with labour and alignment. (sound fair?)

Given this needs the rear dropped to do the above, It's a bit much in my little garage but I think I'll do the front myself to save some coin, rear lower control arm (fronts already done), upper control arm and both ball joints $260 in parts only.

I figure doing all this should made it drive and feel really good handling wise, but I'm a bit concerned about NVH . Experience with the above being all Superpro ?

[Bellato]

I think from memory everything is good in superpro except for inner toe arm in the rear, keep them oem (probably still replace with new factory bushes) and lower shock mount in the front.