jacobmitchell92 Donating Members 370 Member For: 13y 10m 16d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/08/13 12:12 PM Share Posted 07/08/13 12:12 PM Yeah I'm not too sure about the remote I just know mine used to be run off the cig lighter and the sub never worked when the acc was off. Now I run a Rockford fosgate 360.3 processor which seems to do a lot better job than the line converter. Having said that its running all top of the range Rockford gear speakers amps and subs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g5jett Member 24 Member For: 12y 7m 16d Gender: Male Location: hampton park Posted 07/08/13 10:07 PM Author Share Posted 07/08/13 10:07 PM (edited) Thanks heaps for all the help guys can you recommend and particular brand or place I should get a decent line converter from? Cause I don’t want any of that buzzing noise going along with the accelerator.. Edited 07/08/13 10:08 PM by g5jett Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennox Member 2,586 Member For: 12y Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 07/08/13 11:13 PM Share Posted 07/08/13 11:13 PM I got my line converter from jaycar it was like 20 bucks. Just make sure you keep it and all it's associated wiring away from any power cables or powered devices. I put all my wiring in loom tube to keep it a little more protected from interference (plus keeps it neat) not sure if it does anything but I don't have any noise in my system at all I have an FG though my old BA had noise I could not get rid of without a capacitor over the supply.. Fg is a lot better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellato Donating Members 2,713 Member For: 14y 4m 7d Posted 07/08/13 11:42 PM Share Posted 07/08/13 11:42 PM Basically line converter is the easiest way! When you're just installing a sub the noise isn't a big issue, its when you start upgrading speakers that noise comes through! I bought a $10 converter and installed one of my old pioneer subs and a new amp in my mrs cruze and no noise at all. I did a full upgrade in my car with splits, speaker and sub with 2 amps but I used a top of the range converter which was about $150. It still has some noise but this converter allows for a couple of adjustments with the input volume so between that and my amp I was able to eliminate it almost completely.However, processors are the only solid way of eliminating noise when doing a full install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g5jett Member 24 Member For: 12y 7m 16d Gender: Male Location: hampton park Posted 08/08/13 10:25 AM Author Share Posted 08/08/13 10:25 AM has anyone installed a line converter in there fg thus far?do the speaker wires run through the pillar between the front andrear doors? I was hoping to be able to hide it in there?cheers.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lennox Member 2,586 Member For: 12y Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 08/08/13 10:57 AM Share Posted 08/08/13 10:57 AM I have one installed but got signal from the front door speakers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellato Donating Members 2,713 Member For: 14y 4m 7d Posted 08/08/13 11:04 AM Share Posted 08/08/13 11:04 AM Yea speaker wires can be found in front kick panel or behind the b pillar panel.You need to take the door trim off though to find the colour to match it inside the kick panel etc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
g5jett Member 24 Member For: 12y 7m 16d Gender: Male Location: hampton park Posted 08/08/13 07:35 PM Author Share Posted 08/08/13 07:35 PM Yes probably the best idea Bellato.. I gess last of all, im looking at a 10" sub most of all because of its size (I want to keep as much boot space free as possible)second of all I already have a 10” sub box and its quite shallow so I’m looking at the a 10" shallow. version of a couple ofdifferent brands at the moment, hopefully around the 300 - 400 rms range, dose everyone think this will be sufficient to hear some good bass? and what gauge power wire should I be running? Also with the amplifier I have to get something at least rated at 400 rms correct..??Cheers.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobmitchell92 Donating Members 370 Member For: 13y 10m 16d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 08/08/13 11:31 PM Share Posted 08/08/13 11:31 PM Yeah a powerful 10inch will be okay, Rockford make good shallow subs and I believe Hertz Do as well. Regarding the amp you'll either need a mono block with simular RMS to the sub or you can bridge a 2-4 channel amp. You'll get the most out of a mono though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellato Donating Members 2,713 Member For: 14y 4m 7d Posted 09/08/13 12:55 AM Share Posted 09/08/13 12:55 AM Sub box size whould be relative to power not the size of the sub. I think its about 1 cubic foot to 300rms. Not sure if this applies similarly to shallow subs but yea.There are plenty of good brands out there. The only difference I found personally is I used to run 2 12" pioneer 400rms subs and now I run a single 12" precision power 500rms and this one is much better. Its not really much louder (although I have the gain turned right down) but the bass tone it gives is so much smoother.As for amps there's a lot to choose from. Althought its 'cheap' I have run my 600rms clarion amp for the last 3 years with both above set ups and still holding up wellAs for wiring I would look at 6 or 8 gauge. I think we used 8 in my mrs car when I put one of my old pioneers in. I run 0 guage in my car from the recommendation of car audio guys to run over 1000rms on 2 amps butits so overkill. 4 would have been fine. So yea I would say 8 gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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