Loose Flywheel Bolts

[a2z]

My ute is more for play than work or a daily driver. And more than likely going to settle for around 400kw as my overall goal. So would you say as a daily driver just go organic and leave the cermic to the track? Or what if its for being driven like its stolen everytime I'm in it? What about drags? I was leaning towards the ceramic until you made me question myself ratter. Lol

[ratter]

the ceramic will normally hold better for the same clamping pressure, but they tend to be either in or out and engagement is not very smooth and can make traffic driving a bit ordinary and what I have been told is that 20,000 klms would be a pretty good life for one assuming normal driving

[spinr33]

I got 80,000kms out of the one in my skyline 3800 pound clamping force 5 puck very in out streetable light pedal feel clamps like a brick wall hitting another brick wall have too perfectly rev match taking off to take off smoothly drives normal once moving you will get used to it

[a2z]

any suggestions as to which clutch I should put in? I want something that can handle drags as this is not a daily driver I was thinking ceramic twin plate. Has anyone had any experience with extreme or with direct clutch or with NPC? Torque Clamp looks the goods but very pricey when including a csc.

[Smoke them tyres]

The issue is with harmonics.

Have a read on the ATI balancer website. They can make custom items.

http://www.dragzine.com/tech-stories/engine/tech-talk-the-ring%E2%80%99s-the-thing-%E2%80%93-inside-elastomer-engine-dampers/

The issue is that the flywheel has significant mass at one end of the crank, and the balancer is supposed to damp the harmonics at the other end.

If it cannot, it just transfers it all down to concentrate at the back end of the engine, hence why the bolts will vibrate loose. The real loosening effect comes with different "orders" of harmonics colliding with each other.

Some failure of oil pumps for our engines will have been contributed to by this. On the ATI website, it says some Honda engines have oil pump failures to due harmonics, and once an ATI balancer is fitted, the problem disappears.

[sexual harrassment panda]

The issue is that the flywheel has significant mass at one end of the crank, and the balancer is supposed to damp the harmonics at the other end. If it cannot, it just transfers it all down to concentrate at the back end of the engine, hence why the bolts will vibrate loose. The real loosening effect comes with different "orders" of harmonics colliding with each other.

harmonics = orders = multiples of a forcing frequency

the problem with autos is the slip in convertors, say the slip is 2%, you end up with beat pattern in the vibration. Basically the vibration signals are close nd at times they line up and double the vibrations and at other times they cancel out.

example = engine doing 6000rpm, 2% slip = gearbox input doing 5880rpm.

slip = 120rpm = 2hz

beat = 2hz = twice per second the vibration doubles then cancels each other out.

Plus when the ratios in the box approach 1:1 then you get the driveshaft vibration transfering back and adding to this.

tail shaft and gearbox vibration bath get transferred to the rear of the engine in manuals and autos. If bolts keep coming loose then check your engine, gearbox and diff mounts and your tailshaft centre bearing as well.

In conclusion, your diff bush is shagged.

cheers

[a2z]

I noticed the bolts conbecting the tail shaft to the diff had a also lost their torque. Hmmmmm

[JETURBO]

Vibro will do that

[turbotrana]

An imagination will do that also

[a2z]

So balancer or centre bearing hey? Any examples of other manuals with this issue and what was the fix rather than just how do we keep the bolts from undoing.