The " Fluid Change "

[Peppy_t92]

Happy to help, all their info is on the ZF website, also with a lot of technical info I might add, makes for a very interesting read.

[arronm]

Yep sort it out Luke , I want one.

Cash ready

Edited 22/08/13 10:53 AM by arronm

[GeGe6]

^^^This +1

[discostig]

Hmmm I wonder if the metal one xft put on mine has the drain plug. Find out in a couple of weeks!

[crazyxa]

I purchased direct from ZF Services in Sydney ph (02) 9679 5555

They shipped to Melbourne too.

ZF Metal Pan Kit (BMW Pan as per pic from earlier post). Part no 1068 103 820 01. Comes with bolts, filter and gasket all for $266

I also purchased 20 litres of ZF Lifeguard $481 (works out to $24 a litre)

Shipping $20

Note. You could easily tap a sump bolt into an existing metal pan but I could be farked and figured I would sell the old metal pan.

eBay temp probe --> Just search Digital LCD Probe Fridge Freezer Thermometer Thermograph

The one I purchased and works perfectly

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Digital-LCD-Probe-Fridge-Freezer-Thermometer-Thermograph-for-Refrigerator-110-/300835102158?pt=AU_Decor_Furnishing&var&hash=item460b2b5dce&_uhb=1

Steps I used for service and fluid level check. Note originally taken from Furitech Automotive site.

ZF website also has a process flow map with pictures:

Filling The Oil (via transmission side filler)
On the left hand side of the transmission housing looking from the back to the front there is a filler plug towards the front of the transmission.

Filling The Oil (via sump if fitted or via transmission side filler)
Note. If you have a side filler and a sump filler just use one, obviously.

1. With the engine off remove the filler plug with an 17mm allen key (if using pan) or 8mm allen key (if using side filler).

2. With the engine off pump the fluid in until it starts to run out the hole. (If using the pan filler then confirm the pump nozzle is pointing in the correct direction which will allow the oil to enter the sump. If oil deflector is in the correct position the nozzle should face the back of the transmission. Have a good look up there with a torch to get an idea and make sure you don’t damage the plastic deflector).

3. Once the fluid starts to run out replace the filler plug loosely.

4. With the gear selector in Park start the vehicle’s engine. Note. Engine revs should be around 750rpm (You may need to turn on Head Lights or Air Conditioning to raise RPM).

5. With engine running remove the filler plug and continue filling until fluid starts to run out. Replace the filler plug (not tight yet).

6. With engine still running place your foot hard on the brake pedal:

a. Select Drive, hold for 3 seconds, foot hard on brake

b. then select Reverse, hold for 3 seconds, foot hard on the brake

c. Repeat a and b. The point is to make sure each gear is engaged and has adequate oil flow.

7. Foot hard on the brake and place car in Park. In theory the transmission temp should be at about 40°C or over.

8. It does not take very long for the transmission to reach 40°C. You can check this by touch, but be careful. If the metal transmission pan is too hot to touch then it’s a no brainer and the transmission is hotter than 40°C. Shut the car off and wait till the pan cools down I.e. it should be warm to touch. When this is the case it should be at around 30-35°C. Another way to check the transmission has cooled down is to use masking tape and stick your probe to the pan to confirm or if using the Ford Diagnostic Scanner to view temp.

9. Final check.

a. Now that the transmission is at the right range restart the car and have your temperature probe ready to go with the readout in a viewable location.

b. You may want to consider having a clean bucket or container on hand if you want to save the spilled fluid, option only.

c. Start the car and remove the filler plug. It is very likely the fluid will gush out when the filler is removed. Don’t be alarmed it will reduce to a trickle in no time. Using a probe thermometer or a scan tool check the fluid temp. If using a probe insert the probe in the filler hole. If the temp is between 40°C - 50°C and fluid streams out then re insert the filler plug and torque it down to 35Nm +/- 3.5Nm. If no fluid has streamed out at 40°C - 50°C then it requires a top up. See Oil Overflow below.

Monitoring
If you have a Diagnostic Scanner available it is recommended to plug in and monitor the engine Revs and Transmission Oil Temperature. Recommended Revs 750 while in Park. Recommended Temperature 40°C at final check. If no Scanner is available do not run longer than 15 minutes during filling time. If temperature rises over 50°C allow the transmission to cool before final check.

Oil Overflow
When full there should be a small stream of oil if it stops streaming at correct temperature add a bit more. If you remove the Pump Nozzle and its pouring out its over full allow it enough time to drain.

Conclusion
With the correct Temperature, Engine RPM and Oil Overflow Stream you can now replace the filler plug and tighten to the recommended torque setting.

Information List

· Recommended Fluid – ZF-LifeGuard Fluid 6

· Recommended Checking Temperature – 40°C

· Recommended Checking RPM – 750rpm

· Drain Plug Tightening Torque – 8 Nm (Polyamide Oilpan)

· Filler Plug Tightening Torque - 35 Nm +/- 3.5Nm (Plug on side of Case)

· Drain Plug Tightening Torque - 12 Nm (Steel Oilpan)

· Filler Plug Tightening Torque - 80 Nm (17mm HEX Steel Oilpan)

[Ralph Wiggum]

Thanks for the info Craxy.

Thank me later ladies: (working on bulk purchase discount for WA guys at the moment)

ZF Sump.PDF

[Tim H]

Hi Guy’s your talking to the mechanically inept and would love to start doing my own services but feel I would need

A this forum and

B a service manual for the 2013 XR6T Ute

Any leads on where I’d get one I’m in Brisvagus

[discostig]

Probably ebay for a digital PDF version? I have them for BAs and BFs thanks this forum and its generous members but you can buy them for like $15 I think online.

[RHR]

Well transmission service, steel pan and cooler install Done!!!! (for the TTG)

Didnt end up going with a furious kit or transolutions kit due to joining lines and now that I used an alternative cooler Im glad I did.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111149979207?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I had all sorts or trouble removing the transmission lines off the OEM heat exchanger. With OEM exchangers, oil filters, numerous water lines in the area there is simply not enough room IMO.

After a lot of swearing and the like I finally managed to remove the coolant lines of the OEM heat exchanger and joined them together with the fittings provided in the kit. The exchanger is still on the side of the block as its impossible to remove (well for me anyway. Might have another crack when its due for a service)

Im aware the cooler kit I used states for FG but between the FG cooler and the terry cooler there is no difference other than a slightly different bracket or a third bracket (Dont ask me which one) for a $30 price difference (Terry more expensive)

I ended up making a small bracket that attached to the bottom of the cooler (Via the bracket provided) and on to the middle radiator support (Roughly in line with the number plate).

So fitted the cooler and lines up yesterday. Its pretty straight forward although I found attaching the new lines to the transmission a little tricky room wise. Probably due to the transfer case drive shaft.

One thing that I did find interesting was the plastic OEM lines. On the fittings that connect to the transmission they appear to be the same inner diameter to the new fittings that came with the kit so personally I dont think flow will be an issue. The kit came with everything needed including cable ties.

So this morning I wet about "flushing" the fluid (drain, fill run through gears and repeat 3 or so times.... THANKS JET) Probably went through the best part of 10 - 12 litres of Gulf western Syntrans in the process. After the final drain the fluid removed was juuuusssssttt about the same colour as the new fluid so I satisfied that I'd done enough. The old fluid was very dark and now bright red, the colour of syntrans

Next was removing the old plastic pan. A cordless drill with a torx bit here is a must. Just took my time here and removed the bolts/screws from the the back of the car to the front. Left all but two bolts/screws in the front (loosened) and was able to tilt the old pan to drain the remaining oil.

Once the pan was off I gave the alloy surface a good clean (Carby cleaner on rag then wipe) ensuring that there was no left over gunk.

Fitting the new pan was tricky. As the filter is not part of the pan you have to sit the filter on the pan and slowly lift it up into position. It sounds easy but with a gasket also floating around/in the way it definatly makes it more "fun". Got it all bolted/screwed up (thanks again cordless drill) and later tensioned up all the bolts/screws by hand

So the final fill began at this point and followed the ZF doc to a degree.

I had the car up on stands and whilst on the stands ran it through the gears again and later checked the oil level. Topped it up and all done.

After cleaning up took it for a run and all good. The transmission "feels" better the way it shifts, smother if you know what I mean. Stopped and checked under the car and cooler connections. No leaks... HAPPY DAYS.

So all in all the entire job took the best part of 7 hours without rushing.

This is purely how I did the job and I don't recommend any one take this as the "How to" to do this.

[ms700]

sounds good rhr

you seem to know your way around these things, now come and do ours......