Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

So was driving through the city tonight and while sitting at a set of lights saw my temp gauge rocket up and trans light came on and the car started shaking/shuddering.

Pulled over saw that the top radiator hose had sheared and fixed it and filled the radiator and coolant back up etc.

But when I started it again the trans light is now permanently on. I only drove it for a minute to get it off the main road of the city but trAns felt all normal for the small drive and had no slipping etc. probably having it towed first thing but has anyone heard of the trans light coming on over a blown radiator hose.

I mean if something so major can break from something so minor it sucks bigtime. But I guess it's just like having the zf milkshake.

Car is bf2 f6

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 10m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Disconnect the battery for 10 min and report back

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland

Trans Light? are you sure it wasnt the Engine light?

The Shuddering is most likely the limp strategy with the PCM, as it cant control its engine temp it begins to drop cylinders out to keep the car cool enough to move for few minutes, to get out of traffic etc, then eventually it will shut the car down to protect the drivetrain. If the car is tune with SCT and you have an xcal, throw the xcal on it and do a DTC check, post the DTC up and it will help us help you.

If your car is stock and you like to do some DIY stuff, a cheap OBDll reader off ebay would be a good investment, most come with an iphone app now to do basic DTC checks, alot of the numbers for DTC's transverse makes/model. Sort of a standardisation, which makes things alot easier. From memory you will still get the occasional odd ball code may be manufacturer specific but for the most part it will get you out of the sh*te

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Yes the code description was overheat recovery mode.

Disconnected the battery and after spending 20 minutes swearing at the battery terminal that suddenly decided to not tighten up anymore while the car alarm goes off on a public road it seems fine now and light is gone

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 1m 6d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland

There is a disarm procedure I used to know so you could disconnect the battery without the alarm going off but Its been too long. Bionic might be able to chime in on that one.

I had something to do with leaving the ignition on and maybe cycling the door locks or something, cant remember. But yes, definately sounds like engine MIL that was on in the dash

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 16y 10m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

No worries happy to help u flog of a plumma :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
  • Create New...
'