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Clutch Recommendations


Pazzo

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Inter breasting.

What's the cost to freshen up a 3+ and a 5?

Also your thoughts on toughening up the stock twin plate?

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  • Sucker
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Well that's a bit farkin boring...we want some blood so we can have a good old dose of internet rage.

Pictures must be fake. :rolleyes:

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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Why cant the inner concave part have a valley/grove with an organic material or something simular to stop the oil making its way onto the plate surface ?

It seems the flacon has big issues with oil/grease making its way onto clutch plate/surfaces but its also a bit much to expect that cleaning of surrounding areas is or should be common practice ...... Or is it ?

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Inter breasting.

What's the cost to freshen up a 3+ and a 5?

Also your thoughts on toughening up the stock twin plate?

I'll get back to you tomorrow with the price to give these clutches a birthday!

What'd be your theory on how it buggered up Paul

There is some contamination coming from somewhere. Another piece of the puzzle is if there is excess brake fluid in the bellhousing when it has been bled, this can vapourise when the flywheel is spinning in the bellhousing and also go on the plate.

It looks as though it has been driven very hard, and slipped. The grease on the wheel hasn't helped the situation at all!

Well that's a bit farkin boring...we want some blood so we can have a good old dose of internet rage.

Pictures must be fake. :rolleyes:

Just polished up my l33t photoshop skillz...

Why cant the inner concave part have a valley/grove with an organic material or something simular to stop the oil making its way onto the plate surface ?

It seems the flacon has big issues with oil/grease making its way onto clutch plate/surfaces but its also a bit much to expect that cleaning of surrounding areas is or should be common practice ...... Or is it ?

On some real old flywheels (old V8s) they have a relief for any grease/oil that can come from the spigot bearing or rear main if it makes its way onto the flywheel.

We would always recommend when removing the bellhousing to inspect and clean all associated parts. Attached is a photo of the flywheel fitted to my car, after it had done 60,000k's. I can assure you it had not been wiped with any cleaner! The flywheel I have fitted to my ED is a BA Mk1 XR6T wheel.

post-9010-0-36238300-1360140972_thumb.jp

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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I understand u supply a new spiggot bearing and that's great but with an engine that has common rear main issues iam supprised that u dont see this on a larger scale

But u cant take the blame for a engines issues !!

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its also a bit much to expect that cleaning of surrounding areas is or should be common practice ...... Or is it ?

Any good mechanic would clean the area down first.

A rear main leaks from the opposite side of the flywheel and the only them I've ever seen clutches get oil on them from that is if there's no way for the oil to escape the bell housing.

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  • The Toxic Rocket
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The clutch package is on it's way back up now.

Mal has added a few bits and pieces to handle the power & torque and a bit more.

Although has recommended a 2000km bed in for it. Looks like I'll have to behave for a while

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Reason for failure on the above clutch looks pretty obvious to me... you can see the oil tracking out of the centre of the flywheel/crank bolt area.

Not sure what the new fangled DOHC motor cranks are like but IIRC the crank bolt holes in the SOHC motors go all the way through into the sump, so oil can track along the bolt threads if there is no sealant/locktight applied and then get spun out onto the clutch.

Looks like oil of some description was tracking out of the crank bolt holes in the above clutch pics, and I'd say that it had a significant effect on the life of the clutch.

BTW - My fiance looked at the above pics and pointed out the oil tracking away from the bolt holes, and around the outside of the friction surface...it isn't hard to see.

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