Clutch Recommendations

[STAINLESS again plz]

I have never stated I want it easy under the foot.

Edited 23/01/13 09:55 AM by STAINLESS

[Paulie2256]

Not many people have. The main market here seems to be track use. So why does the street keep being brought up. Just make a clutch that will handle the track. The serious guys won't care what it's like on the steet.

[STAINLESS again plz]

Im just pissed cause my 450rwkw opt3+ failed with 320rwkw.

Then I get told that's crap because a 250kw Expensive Daewoo hasnt f*cked a 350kw opt3.

[FPVFGS]

Paul, it must feel like you are hitting your head against a brick wall.

ok kiddies lets get some cliff notes here, so you all want to have a clutch that you can take to the track on semi's?

But you want a good clutch pedal and good street manners?

In my experience this is a big big ask. I'm sure Mal Wood has more than enough customers to not have a massive concern whether 5 of you want to go and use something else, otherwise Paul, give them what they want? they want something that won't die, they say they don't slip the clutch so go ahead and give them a triple plate brass button clutch. Will solve their "power" issues, Then you guys will just need to go to gym a bit more to push the pedal in and it will be impossible to drive on the street, but hey, you don't slip the clutch so it's fine.

Hang on he ain't banging his head on a wall with everyone .. When u spend $2500 on a opt 5 clucth you expect it to work ... The first time the opt 5 sh*t it self was when the pedal didn't come back up from halfway off the floor .. Now we sorted that issue out .. The car then was only 372kw now it's 445kw .. And it just can't handle it . This clutch is only 6000 kms old and had a 2000 km bed in period ... So I'd you read my early posts this is the only high performance car I've had trouble with the clutch .. . Mal wood do build great clutches and shifters I have said that as well . I'm not bagging them out , having a discussion . As he ( Paul ) has made a recommendation .

[Rollin]

Hmm...

Things in my option 5's favour compared to fitting one in a BA onwards turbo:

ED is lighter

3.27 gears initially, then 3.7 diff gears for about a year

235/35/17s, (whatever semi-used ones I could get from work)

Only 270-315rwkw (depending on the engine that was in the car at the time)

Things not in its favour:

Probably about 15 or so standing start 3rd gear clutch dump powerskids (also did a few in second, 4 up)

Regular friday night drift practices which resulted in the consumption of 2 to 4 rear tyres per month, smashed a LHS E-series axle, fitted an AU diff and generally the twisted one LHS axle a month until I got 31 spline axles

Couple of burnout practices on different friday nights at powercruise

Daily driven for about 30,000km (and usually not gently...)

Towed a box trailer on the odd occasion, towed a 1000kg pop top caravan to and from powercruise one year as well.

That same powercruise ran new Kumho KU36s all round, went in every cruise session and was running with 4 people in the car each time. Ended up wrecking a piston in the last cruise session on the sunday.

I might not have much power, but the car got punished pretty hard, on the street and on the track, whenever I went to powercruise I always had a full car too - more grip, more weight, more stress on the clutch. It's still good to go even after all that, maybe only 50 or 60% worn?

If I could repeatedly drop the clutch in 3rd from a standing start, as well as pop it constantly while drifting, doing burnouts, and drag racing and still get so much life out of an option 5, surely with a heavier car that has more power a competent driver would get 15,000km out of one at least? (Provided the clutch has been correctly installed as well, of course....)

Edited 23/01/13 10:35 AM by Rollin

[Ralph Wiggum]

Worm & Jet, do not post in this thread any more. You are both only trying to inflame the situation.

[Paulie2256]

Both have autos too lol

[OED666]

Aren't most clutchs actually rated at flywheel kw not at rear wheel kw for one, also a track car isn't going to be under as much load as launching from the drag strip with sticky tires ie wider and sticker vs just moving around on a track when its constantly moving.

Its up to the clutch supplier to state how the clutch is rated, RW or FW... I agree a track car will be under less stress than at the drags.

I understand what your saying but Rollins car is still irrelevant to this, at the end of the day his car only has 315rwkw. I should be able to drive my car as hard as him with 550+rwkw and not have a problem going by what use advertise. My clutch has been bedded in and will be hitting the track in a few weeks which is why I'm post in this thread so much as I'm trying to work out how much power this clutch can really take in all conditions

I can't see why it will not hold the power. Just don't slip it excessively.

Do you have a clutch that is great on the street but will handle the odd drag night at a track? Only asking as you would know that 99% of people on this forum will hit the drag strip, so in knowing that I think your clutches should hold up on the track and street...not just rolling.

The clutches we offer can do street and occassional strip. I have an Option 1 in my ED XR6, which has probably done 90 odd passes down the strip, with most of the launches at 5000rpm with traction. The clutch has done around 60,000k's. Yes it has less power than the rating for the clutch, but it is not rated to be slipped at 5000rpm.

Yes I did after the first clutch . I delt with Paul. Was good customer service . This time .. Not quite it only happened friday night and seemingly enough we are talking about it over here ... I haven't said mal wood clutches are bad .. There fantastic on the street and so is there shifters .. But everytime I bolt on ets the clucth poo's it self .. ... . I have put in other suggestions on making a "better clutch " in previous posts ..

For everyone reading this, I only knew about Luke's latest clutch issue today, reading it on here. The first time we got the clutch back for an inspection, it had grease contamination. I would be interested to see what's going on this time!

I could clamp 250 Expensive Daewoo rwkw with my anus.

It is insane you keep using that little car as example.

Im sure theres plenty of opt3+ out there that are holding up.

Fact is mine is not.

My stock clutch was better.

Umm... Don't really know about that comment. So your getting upset that I have made a point about a clutch lasting, and given a hard time. You have said they way over rated with the power levels. I have stated some pretty simple facts.

Again, you do not answer my question. Where did you buy your clutch from? Did you contact us, or the supplier when you had an issue? If not, why? If I didn't care about the product, and customer satisfaction do you think I would be here now?

Paul, it must feel like you are hitting your head against a brick wall.

ok kiddies lets get some cliff notes here, so you all want to have a clutch that you can take to the track on semi's?

But you want a good clutch pedal and good street manners?

In my experience this is a big big ask. I'm sure Mal Wood has more than enough customers to not have a massive concern whether 5 of you want to go and use something else, otherwise Paul, give them what they want? they want something that won't die, they say they don't slip the clutch so go ahead and give them a triple plate brass button clutch. Will solve their "power" issues, Then you guys will just need to go to gym a bit more to push the pedal in and it will be impossible to drive on the street, but hey, you don't slip the clutch so it's fine.

Yes, I do feel like I am banging my head against a brick wall for a select few!

I have never stated I want it easy under the foot.

Again, who exactly did you purchase the clutch from? Who was it you dealt with?

Not many people have. The main market here seems to be track use. So why does the street keep being brought up. Just make a clutch that will handle the track. The serious guys won't care what it's like on the steet.

Unless the cars are trailered everywhere, then street use does have something to do with it. People do care about how it drives. They don't want the pedal to shudder, clutch to be "on" or "off", and to be quiet.

Im just pissed cause my 450rwkw opt3+ failed with 320rwkw.

Then I get told that's crap because a 250kw Expensive Daewoo hasnt f*cked a 350kw opt3.

The XR6T Option 3 Plus is rated for 410RWKW...

Hang on he ain't banging his head on a wall with everyone .. When u spend $2500 on a opt 5 clucth you expect it to work ... The first time the opt 5 sh*t it self was when the pedal didn't come back up from halfway off the floor .. Now we sorted that issue out .. The car then was only 372kw now it's 445kw .. And it just can't handle it . This clutch is only 6000 kms old and had a 2000 km bed in period ... So I'd you read my early posts this is the only high performance car I've had trouble with the clutch .. . Mal wood do build great clutches and shifters I have said that as well . I'm not bagging them out , having a discussion . As he ( Paul ) has made a recommendation .

I'm not banging my head with you Luke. What did you do to resolve the problem with the pedal? From the photo it doesnt appear as though you have a pedal assist spring. That spring there in the photo needs to be there.

Seriously... Don't quote something at a power level if it can't take it under all conditions!

People drive on the street on semi's (I know I do) and launch it like at the track...

It's like ATOMIC saying there 998kw built engine will only handle 998kw if you drive below 3000rpm... And don't drive it hard or at the track? WTF?

So if you take your new standard car to the drags, break the tailshaft or diff and you then expect Ford to warrant it? Not bloody likely... I would like to see how you can launch on the street like you do on the track. I have tried many times, and all it ends up in is wheelspin and going no where.

[FPVFGS]

I will call you tomorrow Paul ...

[OED666]

Who has deleted anything? I certainly haven't!