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Clutch Recommendations


Pazzo

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  • Tampon inserted, Auto Acquired, next purchase a new handbag
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  • Member For: 16y 9m 6d
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I spoke to Paul when ordering my clutch, and went with a 3+ with a upgraded clamp or some shiz. Perfect on the street.

But concerned about track use. Would have wanted to race at least once.

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  • Member For: 16y 1m 4d
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Ford sell a car with 310kw. It runs that power all day every day. Take it to the track though, break something and all warranty is gone.

Mal wood auto just need to make it clear that their products are for street use only otherwise it is very misleading.

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 2d
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All I want to no is how much power can the opt5 take? Mal on here has said it will take 600+rwkw with ease, you personally paul have told me it will take 600+rwkw which im aiming for. Your site says it will take 500+rwkw and you just said then it will take 550rwkw:s A few people on here have killed there opt5 with under 400rwkw but have not commented on wether or not they have got in contact with use after the cl.utch has sh*t it self. Also which ED are you speaking of?

Michael, I have always quoted the Option 5 to hold 550RWKW, yet there are cars out there with more than 600RWKW with the Option 5, and they are holding the power nicely. As I have said a million times, bed the clutch in, (they don't have full clamp from the start. once they are bedded in, they get full clamp).

Does anyone fit new brake pads and rotors, and just go along the highway and just stand on them and expect them to work fully? I hope not! They need to be bedded in, same as a clutch. Same as if you trail the brake pedal, the brakes will wear out, if you slip the clutch, it will also wear out.

The ED I am referring to is Rollin's, which I am sure you well know from boostedfalcon.net

I spoke to Paul when ordering my clutch, and went with a 3+ with a upgraded clamp or some shiz. Perfect on the street.

But concerned about track use. Would have wanted to race at least once.

We supplied the Option 3 Plus to Ted Robinson Racing for their FG F6 Typhoon. This vehicle entered the Bathurst 12 hour in 2011. It came 5th outright, and 3rd in its class. It had some well known guys driving the car too. We had great feedback regarding the driveline which we supplied. The vehicle will be racing again in the 12 hour in Febuary. Surely this speaks for itself that the clutch can handle 12 hours around bathurst. In saying that, its the same clutch still in the car for this year too.

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  • You've changed man....
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<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="OED666" data-cid="1353474" data-time="1358925576"><p>

No, but Mal has an XR6T ute? Why does it matter if MY ute isn't a turbo?<br />

<br />

/p></blockquote>

Because you used your ute as exampld how good the opt3 is.

Then next paragraph said the problem is how I drive.

My stock clutch would still be in my car if I just retightened the flywheel bolts instead of buying opt3+

it held up to clutch kicking at 80 on 3rd time and time again. Never slipped with 28" semis.

So explain how stock clutch outperformed opt3+

Edited by STAINLESS
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Yes I understand you have to bed the clutch in, I would hope most people would no that. Like I said there's a few people on here that killed there opt5 with well under the rating but won't comment back on whether or not they have contacted use about it. I'm just hoping I haven't wasted $2000+ on a clutch that will die on my first outing at the track. I find it hard to see how Rollins car is relevant to this conversation as his car was only making around 300rwkw, doesn't matter how hard he drives it, you would expect the clutch to hold.

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  • Member For: 12y 7m 24d
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My original clutch ( sorry for late reply we had a fire call) . Do you mean the original oem clutch or the first opt 5 .. The original clutch survived 3000 kms after the initial tune .. ( died at 23000km ) put in the first op 5 after wear in and the track day it lasted a total 6000 kms . ( 29000) . Same again for the second opt 5 ( 34000) kms .... As I said on the street this is brilliant but I put et streets on and it can't hold the power .. I'm not clutch dumping or "riding the clutch " I drive of the line as per street and as soon as the clutch is released my throttle hits the floor hard .. I can see how my driving style is killing the clutch I have drivin manuals all my life as I said in an earlier post ,

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 2d
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No, but Mal has an XR6T ute? Why does it matter if MY ute isn't a turbo?

Because you used your ute as exampld how good the opt3 is.

Then next paragraph said the problem is how I drive.

My stock clutch would still be in my car if I just retightened the flywheel bolts instead of buying opt3+

it held up to clutch kicking at 80 on 3rd time and time again. Never slipped with 28" semis.

So explain how stock clutch outperformed opt3+

Have you not stated that the clutches are FAILING well below the expected power level? I used my ute as an example, as it has well under the rated power the clutch, and it still works, after 125,000km's. Going by what you are saying, it should have failed by now!

I have no idea why your clutch failed. Did you call and talk to us?

Yes I understand you have to bed the clutch in, I would hope most people would no that. Like I said there's a few people on here that killed there opt5 with well under the rating but won't comment back on whether or not they have contacted use about it. I'm just hoping I haven't wasted $2000+ on a clutch that will die on my first outing at the track. I find it hard to see how Rollins car is relevant to this conversation as his car was only making around 300rwkw, doesn't matter how hard he drives it, you would expect the clutch to hold.

You would be suprised that a lot of people do not bed clutches in! Not wanting to sound rude, but if you feel you will not be happy with the clutch, (if it is still in un-used condition) we will happily refund your money. We know the product works! Again, as I have said to STAINLESS, I used Rollin's as an example as going by the general theory of this thread, the clutches will hold half the rated power. Rollin only has 315RWKW, but it is driven much harder than most people would think!

My original clutch ( sorry for late reply we had a fire call) . Do you mean the original oem clutch or the first opt 5 .. The original clutch survived 3000 kms after the initial tune .. ( died at 23000km ) put in the first op 5 after wear in and the track day it lasted a total 6000 kms . ( 29000) . Same again for the second opt 5 ( 34000) kms .... As I said on the street this is brilliant but I put et streets on and it can't hold the power .. I'm not clutch dumping or "riding the clutch " I drive of the line as per street and as soon as the clutch is released my throttle hits the floor hard .. I can see how my driving style is killing the clutch I have drivin manuals all my life as I said in an earlier post ,

Luke, the only recommendation I have for your clutch is cerametallic discs. Can you tell me if the FG's have a pedal assist spring on the clutch pedal?

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