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Run In Oil


ripped6

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Hey all, just trying to work out how long to leave the run in oil for in my FG XR6t. Had the car tuned to 280rwkws at 750kms and then to 390rwkws at 1350kms. I've clocked up 4500kms currently and considering getting it swapped out this week. Any advice would be awesome

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It's no different to the oil that normally goes in them.

A lot of people change the oil halfway between services, eg. 7500km.

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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yeh bang something good quality around the $40-$50 mark a 5lts, but not full synthetic must be semi

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ah ok, I thought maybe they ran a different oil in them to begin with in order to help clean out any tiny bits of metal that might come off as the engine runs in. I'll get it pulled out this week anyway as it's close enough to 5000kms. cheers for the help

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Most of the running in of an engine is done in the first couple of hundred kms. If you kept the engine under load both accelerating and decellerating during that time then it's probably run in as good as it's going to get. As for 390rwkw by 1300km, lol, it would have been run in on the dyno doing that, and it would have certainly been run in by 1500km if you were boosting it which I assume anyone would! I would have ripped the factory oil out then and put a good quality fully synthetic in of a heavier weight. 40 weight just won't offer you enough protection at the power you're making imo. castrol edge 10w/60 seems to be the oil of choice for people running modified turbos, especially in summer.

I avoided redline but boosted my car from day one. Got a drum of the gtx15w40 used from the factory and changed oil at 1000km, 3000km, 5000km, and put nulon 10w40 in at 7500km. Only left mineral oil in mine until then as my car is unmodified. If I modded it pretty heavily at 1000km like you did then mine would have had fresh fully syn oil in her then. Oil is cheap insurance in my opinion especially if you drive the car hard. My stock fg f6 made 283rwkw on one dyno and 281rwkw on another so she's healthy.
And if you're worried about metal in the oil, then get a couple of filtermags to slap on to the oil filter. I've been running them on mine since new. you'll be surprised how much tiny bits of metal they catch when you cut a filter open. even have a couple on the zf.

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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castrol edge is junk in these donks

never run a full syn in these engines aswell has to be semi, cam lobes will look like a pitted hunk of snot at 100,000kms been proven many times aswell

"regular" turbo engine "thinking" doesnt work on these cars ............no u cant use a boost bleed t piece either

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castrol edge is junk in these donks

never run a full syn in these engines aswell has to be semi, cam lobes will look like a pitted hunk of snot at 100,000kms been proven many times aswell

"regular" turbo engine "thinking" doesnt work on these cars ............no u cant use a boost bleed t piece either

Interesting. I don't frequent the forums but it's the first I've heard of fully syns causing this issue. Too long service interval I would have thought more likely but I'm happy to be re-educated on my oil. I'll be sticking to nulon with mine until it gets modified. Hard to find anyone who gives that oil a bad rap in stock turbos.

What oil are you running in your modded f6?

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  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
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nulon but its a semi, even ford factory fill is a semi

full syn is not recomended, as per ford ( I know this means bugger all ) and as per many engine builders see the effects on the cam/s and lash/tappets

its effectively a roller cam set up and any engine builder will not recomend full syn on a roller

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