Adding Amp And Sub To Fg

[abzy]

hey, whats the best way too add an amp and sub too the fg? after all the different options cheap too expensive. I really like my quality sound so speakers will be going in eventually aswell with an amp but for now I have the amp and sub from my old ute.

cheers abzy

[ledoff]

save up and do it all at the same time, it will be cheaper in the long run. just spend the extra couple of hundred and do it all at once.

[abzy]

thanks, but I do all my stereo work myself so will be no extra cost, just time.

anyone got any options?

[old_mate]

Right, if you want to use factory stereo, you need a high level converter (preferrably a processor) to get your RCA connections.

Be wary though - a lot of the time, these things have issues with induced noise. The factory ford head unit is pretty sh*thouse to begin with for SQ, some people retain them for their wheel control/bluetooth/ipod interfacing.

The other, (and IMO better) way is to run a traditional seperate head unit and just put up with it's lack of integration.

[#96]

Right, if you want to use factory stereo, you need a high level converter (preferrably a processor) to get your RCA connections.

.

this part I never understand... almost all amps have 'high level' inputs, capable of accepting the speaker wire and boosting the signal.

the converter uses this speaker signal to begin with (ie it is not a true pre amped signal) and reduces it (unless ive missed something)

what is the bennifit?

(looking to do this in my car, and its one that has me stumped)

[old_mate]

noise.

proper line converters and processors are balanced, the high level inputs on amps are one big source of potential problems.

Without getting toooo technicial, basically as I said before the factory ford head units are sh*t. By amplifying an already sh*t signal, your basically just amplifying sh*t.

A processor does as it suggests, takes the signal and does it's best to filter out the sh*t ready for amplification.

Google is your friend on this. And be aware - you always get what you pay for (some of the cheaper high/low level converters and processors are sh*t)

[PLAYRZ]

As old_mate said, the signal from the Ford ICC is garbage.. I used an LLC and processor to try and reduce the signal noise further, works well but still not great.

If you just want to add an entry level amp and sub then one with high level inputs should be fine for just the sub. Would suggest something better if your planning on replacing the whole system.

[Mr_xr6_Turbo1]

just buy an alpine h800 and run everything from there I was running a Alpine H800 before I charged to the pioneer p99rs and I had almost no signal nosie even at high volumes

Edited 06/01/13 05:03 AM by Mr_xr6_Turbo1

[Upinder]

alpine h800 is the way to go if u have the money u need to get the rux control too
this is what I have in my fg
focal splits front
focal coaxal at back
2 type r subs
pdx v9 amp
pdx m12 amp
h800 amp runs like dream
but has to be tuned the right way or u will blow your speakers up
head unit would cost cheaper and u will get better sound tbh

[abzy]

cheers for all the help!!! when I had my BA I ran a separate headunit and it was much better but this time I wanna run it through the standard, mainly due too wanting it too stay stock looking. I would say I will upgrade the speakers at the same time so I would be running my 12" type s (all the subs ive owned ive liked this the best for my tastes) that will be running off its own amp and then id go type r splits (again have been my choice due how they sound) and run them off a amp aswell. rears I usually leave stock just as rear fill as I dont really like too much sound coming from behind me.

so by the sounds of it that alpine h800 sounds too be the go? whats the vehcile hub pro like? im willing too spend the extra on something good, worth doing, worth doing well I say.

cheers again for the help, much appriciated