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Bottom End Rebuild... Help


Poelwyk

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  • Member
  • Member For: 13y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Werribee,Melbourne, Australia

well what turned into just a head gasket replacement has turned into a Bottom end needed a rebuild... in the ba

the block needs to be decked and theres a tad bit of play in the pistens so I have been thinking about re doing the bottom end as its only a BA bottom end..

what will I need to do this... what are people putting in theres..what sould I get the bores taken out too I dont wanna have to retune the car

what head gasket sould I put in ... sould I have the crank replaced or cleaned up....

I will be going more power so I wanna know this bottem will hold

how bi

the heads been recoed already and has atomic valve springs on it....

sorry to sound a bit stupid but iv never done this before

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

even a stock rebuild is likely to have better piston sealing than a high klm engine so may result in higher compression and then ping with a custom tune suited to a tired engine.

After running the engine in it will be wise to get things checked to ensure you do not damage the new pistons etc

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Werribee,Melbourne, Australia

hey mick yeah ok so once this is done ill have to bring it back into you and get you to check the tune and everything ... ill be driveing it in the 3,000 limmted tune untill you have checked it all over..

its just a pain in the bumb good timeing for the year lol

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

it's never a good time, but some are worse than others.

if you are serious about chasing big power, build the motor right, do not half do it or else it will cost more in the long run.

who did the assesment on the engine? many times even with higher mileage, you can get the head machined and use a new gasket and get away with it

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  • Member For: 17y 10m 14d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

Either that or buy an atomic rebuild kit and drop all the bits off at your engine builder. That way you have the security of a strong bottom end and you have no probs when the mod bug hits again

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  • Member For: 13y 3m 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Werribee,Melbourne, Australia

The test was done by riverside macanics in werribee mick

I was looking at the atomic rebuild kits as I rather have tge stronger bittom end but how do u work out what kit to go with

And do I buy tye stuff to sute the bord block or to tge pustens...

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  • Member For: 18y 6m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: @ my laptop

you are better off getting the engine shop to supply the parts you want, that way there is no way they can pass the buck if things go wrong, they will know what size pistons are required to suit what size bore etc

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  • Member For: 17y 9m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Gladstone, Queensland

The spool cp rebuild combos are excellent value for money but from memory dont have piston crown cooling holes/squirters in the rods, although a decent machine shop could change that. I rebuilt mine using the atomic pistons, rings and 698kw rods, head and main studs, h/duty tensioner, sprockets and chain. It soon adds up and with parts and machining still cost $7500ish from memory and that's assembling the engine myself, double checking all the clearances. Jack bros in brisbane did all the work and everything was balanced spot on. Although few have had issues with cranks/ main caps walking I also went the atomic mains girdle, if I had my time again I would go billet mains as I had to get it line bored anyway because the girdle pulled the mains out. Billet mains would also dave hours when checking and looks heaps neater. Also one other thing is if you go rods with the gudgeon pin feed, get atomic do drill the top big end shell or get the engine shop to call atomic and ask. Set me back a few days as I ordered the bearings myself and didnt send them to jack bros, atomic actually drill the breaking shell smaller than the hole in the conrod, to a slight restriction im guessing. Apparantly the bulk of the spool/cp kits sold are 20thou over and even the smallest atomic slugs require bore/hone. Make sure you ask the engine shop if they have a torque plate for the hone, if they dont use someone that does. I would also go a little tighter piston/bore clearance if I ever build another one, as its a touch noisey on startup and for 20-30 sections after. The atomic spec is compensating for heaps off boost/heat, so for most punters you could go tighter no dramas depending on boost/majority of inteded use

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