XtRmn8 570Nm @1800rpm Donating Members 2,441 Member For: 21y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 15/11/12 03:17 AM Share Posted 15/11/12 03:17 AM Hi all,I am looking at all the intake options for an FG and I am not sure what the best would be for the $$$ spent.At the moment the car is bone stock and the following will be getting done at some point in the new year:- Pipe kit- PWR intercooler - Venon cat- ID 1000 injectors- TuneI want to change the intake now just to get some induction noise happening and also want it to work with the above mods down the track.I know that Turbo side is the best, however for the smaller turbo I don't think its worth it and if I ever got a bigger turbo I would change the intake to turbo side.Anyway the options that I am looking at are:1. FG V8 airbox/snorkel and K&N filter2. FG V8 airbox/snorkel and K&N filter + intake muffler 4" replacement pipe3. Herrod intake with K&N pod4. Herrod intake with K&N pod + intake muffler 4" replacement pipe5. KPM intake with twin pod6. KPM intake with twin pod + intake muffler 4" replacement pipeIs the 4" muffler replacement pipe going to give any benefit on the smaller XR6T?Are the Herrod and KPM intakes worth it over the V8 airbox/snorkel with the smaller turbo?At the moment I am leaning towards the Herrod intake because I think the pod will give a better induction note, but should I bother with the intake muffler replacement as well?Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goliath Member 383 Member For: 14y 5m 2d Gender: Male Location: Sydney Posted 15/11/12 03:21 AM Share Posted 15/11/12 03:21 AM the 4" replacement will help with induction noise. Doesn't impact performance as far as I know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MA91CK billet turbos and weathered engines dont mix Donating Members 1,346 Member For: 12y 6m 25d Gender: Male Location: Wollongong Posted 15/11/12 03:33 AM Share Posted 15/11/12 03:33 AM Mate go turbo side. If you change turbos the only thing that changes is the small silicon bit. Sounds greAt too! And don't go pwr, go pw stepped cooler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bdwong Member 20 Member For: 12y 8m Posted 15/11/12 11:20 AM Share Posted 15/11/12 11:20 AM +1 for turbo side, couldn't be happer with mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bellato Donating Members 2,713 Member For: 14y 1m 28d Posted 15/11/12 09:54 PM Share Posted 15/11/12 09:54 PM Turbo side and battery relocation will probably work out the same price as if you go a herrod or kpm kit + intake muffler delete so its worth it. If you just want something a bit louder then don't waste money on an xr8 box, just cut the front out of your box, put a k n n panel and intake muffler delete. $250 and you'll get a decent spool sound and make 300rwkw easy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevanford Member 268 Member For: 12y 10m 16d Posted 15/11/12 10:35 PM Share Posted 15/11/12 10:35 PM If you're going to go to a bigger turbo in the future then go turbo side now. Don't spend money twice if you don't have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XtRmn8 570Nm @1800rpm Donating Members 2,441 Member For: 21y 2m 25d Gender: Male Location: Perth, WA Posted 16/11/12 01:26 AM Author Share Posted 16/11/12 01:26 AM (edited) I highly doubt I will go a bigger turbo any time soon. Going a bigger turbo will probably mean valve springs, surge tank, bigger dump and exhaust etc so don't think it will happen any time soon. The mods I listed above are what will happen all in one go in the future.As Bellato suggested I will probably stick to a modded air box and filter.You are all right about the turbo side thought, for the money of a turbo side and battery relocation kit its better than dropping close to the same amount on a kpm or herrod intake.Cheers Edited 16/11/12 01:29 AM by XtRmn8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 6m 21d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 03/09/13 05:29 AM Share Posted 03/09/13 05:29 AM Thread revival Just continuing off this train of thought. Been thinking about getting a pod setup and when comparing the passenger side + muffler delete price vs. turbo side CAI + Battery relocation, I see there is usually around $100 difference.I personally don't mind the zutututtu flutter crap (and yes I know I will prob get sick of it after a while, but not having any noise is a strange sensation and personally I prefer it when ppl can hear that I'm up their asses lol)ANYWAY...I guess theres a few questions I need help on. Firstly the sound of fluttering or whatever, can this be controlled like in my old jap car where basically if I kept the revs below 2500rpm, when releasing the accelerator it wouldn't make too much noise (and if its below 2000 rpm literally no noise is made - meaning when im near coppers or anything, if I drove like a nana then no flutter noise will be present). Does this concept work for the FG XR6T ? Also is there any downsides to having the turbo side CAI used on a STOCK car ? I saw some posts about people saying they need to tune the car after the pod install, but I would have thought it would be the same as passenger side box in that the ecu will reprogram itself over the next 500kms of driving or whatever and that if you want to see good gains from it, then the tune is a must. (But tbh im kinda saving to do most stuff b4 tune and coz im pretty poor I realistically don't see the tune happening for quite some time so was interested to know if there will be any negatives to using a turbo side intake on stock setting?How about the cheapo kits for passenger side airbox (im talking the ebay jobbies (I think they are actually that autotechnika brand that I see in super cheap autos?)) If a turbo side intake is bad for stock car and I have to go passenger side, then tbh those cheaper kits really look the goods. And right now theres a guy doing them for $239 and one with a damaged box (im hoping packing and not the actual black enclosure part lol) and that's going for $209 delivered. Not sure if that guy is a known member here but at $209, I was thinking of buying an actual k&n pod filter (think they are around the 100-150 price range?) and therefore have a kit for $309-359 and save a couple hundred bux (or is the reason they are so cheap because the enclosure are sh*thouse quality and don't fit without major trimmimg, etc?)I know the whole cheap, reliable, powerful scenario and yes I would prefer it to be reliable, powerful and not cheap lol but I gotta ask in case it is actually a quality fitting enclosure as it looks similar to a couple diy jobbies ive seen on the forums so made me think maybe someone 'reputable' on these forums are making them ?Lastly, (mayb not the right section to ask) is intercoolers and heat soak. Theres been a lot of debate about heat soak, etc with some people saying 300rwkw (and 280 for fg xr6t) is the most power the car will put out before being impacted by heat soak and then some are saying 350rwkw? I tend to believe the tuners thread I think I read somewhere (could have been mick from pitlane) in which they were saying just under 300 is the limit (think it was 285 or something?) but I could be very wrong. Now after talking to Chris @ rapid systems, he was actually telling me that the 'stepped core' that ppl get (PWR/PW) are actually not that much better than stock as the stepped part has issues I think, and that stage 2 is pretty much then a minimum. I guess my main question is for DAILY DRIVING (no track or drag strip action ever) will the stock intercooler or even a F6 one be ok? or will I NEED to upgrade. Im only thinking at my initial 'stage 1' tune which im hoping to get around the 300rwkw mark and eventually onto 320ish (or whenever I max out the turbo) after putting the full exhaust. But what I want to know is about heatsoak and how much power you actually lose and how much it affects someone during daily driving duties. A lot of my driving is stupid stop start traffic and freeway driving to work (with the odd acceleration here and there when I need to over take). So will a bunch of my power disappear even during normal driving I.e. after 1 hr of driving when the engine bay is all hot and stuff will I be losing power and instead of 300rwkw im actually producing 250 coz of the soak? Or is it simply a dyno/thrashing thing that when you go flogging your car back to back for 2-5min intervals of hard driving, is that the only way you will you notice heat soak?Sorry for the long post and questions but any help would be appreciated cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTR_NITRO_FG Donating Members 3,214 Member For: 11y 6m 21d Gender: Male Location: NOR Perth Posted 03/09/13 05:30 AM Share Posted 03/09/13 05:30 AM sorry again for the long post , feel free to only answer some of the questions at a time lolI swear every time I start a post or email to someone, it ends up being the stupidest longest letter thing ever hahah Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenspace64 New Member 16 Member For: 11y 10m 5d Posted 03/09/13 11:56 PM Share Posted 03/09/13 11:56 PM dude, that is one huge bunch of questions! Love to help but I'm in the same boat as you and with a full stock car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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