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Turbo Oil Line Filter


AF04XR

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90deg at turbo end is for bf's maybe? I remember matty from gj drivlines telling me on fg's that they fit better with the straight end on turbo and right angle at filter...which is the way I have it on my fg and it fits fine...

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  On 06/11/2012 at 10:35 AM, Falky100 said:

I use Motorsport connections line and filter. I have had 0 leaks and 0 problems. I think Earls have stinged a bit lately and ppl are starting to have problems.

How did You find motorsport connections for pricing??

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  • Member For: 13y 2m 5d
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I purchased and fitted an Earl's one last week to my BA MkII, and mine has the 90 degree fitting on the turbo end, as well as the orange hose. No washers on the turbo end, and reused the factory washers on the banjo fitting at the pickup point on the block and I haven't noticed it leak yet.

Maybe you bought an FG one??

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Thought I would just tack on to this thread rather than start another about the turbo oil line.

So after reading both sides to the earls over and over again Im still unsure whether to put one in or not (FG with 85,000kms). Now we know the stock filter can clog up and cause turbo failure, but what about the earls line. Has anyone ever had a problem occur with the earls line? I think my decision will be fairly clear that if the earls line has a 100% success rate as opposed to the possibility of the stock one failing then the $150 is worth it

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  On 11/11/2012 at 10:59 AM, Bellato said:
Thought I would just tack on to this thread rather than start another about the turbo oil line.

So after reading both sides to the earls over and over again Im still unsure whether to put one in or not (FG with 85,000kms). Now we know the stock filter can clog up and cause turbo failure, but what about the earls line. Has anyone ever had a problem occur with the earls line? I think my decision will be fairly clear that if the earls line has a 100% success rate as opposed to the possibility of the stock one failing then the $150 is worth it

There is reportings/threads of them failing/leaking due to them changing something (they changed to crimp fittings I think it was).

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cant go wrong with it mate, just grab yourself one for piece of mind.

Even if it did leak which mine never has I would rather that than an oil starved turbo. There not to bad to fit though I fitted mine on a hoist so it was pretty easy to get to everything. If you don't have stuff to do it just get a mech. to do it I doubt it would cost much.

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They had a bad batch I'm pretty sure, but any you buy now should be past that.

As mentioned, even potential leaking fittings are 100x better than a broken turbo.

They're pretty easy to fit, here's a quick write up from my BA:

-Basically you get under the car, above your oil filter there will be a plug going onto the bit where the factory line comes off. Un-plug it.

-It's made up of three pieces, the filter, then a middle piece, then the oil sender unit. So put a 25mm open ended spanner (actually 24mm but 25 is easier to get on) from above onto the middle piece (wedge it or get someone to hold) and get underneath with a 21mm spark plug socket (long socket) on an extender bar and undo the oil sender unit.

-Now move your 25mm spanner onto the inside piece on the engine side of the oil line and use a 24mm/25mm socket of some sort on the middle piece to remove it.

-Now move to the turbo side, take the pipe going from the turbo to the crossover section on top of the rocker cover off, use a socket with extender to remove the bolt holding down the oil line. You might need a smaller 3/4" drive to get at it. The line will lift off.

-You might need to use an alan key to remove the plastic clip holding the lines together up front, I did but not sure if it was needed, don't pull the screw right out just loosen it enough to move the plastic bit.

-Now get back under and rotate the washer touching up the oil line until it comes off, and then slide the factory oil line off, it should now lift out.

-Put a socket / spanner over the last piece remaining in the block to remove the filter piece. Remove the element out of the piece.

-Use new thread tape / sealant and screw it back into the block tight.

-Either reuse the old washer or a new one and place it into position over the filter... screw the black banjo fitting onto the new line by hand, place over the old filter piece and then put the filter on. Move it into position and again with new sealant/ thread tape tighten the middle piece on MAKING SURE you have a spanner over the inside piece. Don't tighten too tight that you crack the banjo fitting.

-Put a spanner now onto the middle piece and with new sealant/tape tighten the oil sender unit back in, plug in.

-Now on the other side, take the adaptor piece out and place it into the turbo/ tighten as per instructions (again, use sealant/tape)

-Loosely fit the other line to the adaptor on the turbo, and loosley fit it to the new earls filter (making sure arrow is to the turbo as per instructions).

-Basically now just go around tightening all the connections, make sure to route it all in a way that looks neat and use cable ties, be careful when tightening the line onto the banjo fitting as it's plastic, and make sure to face the sticker away so you can't see it if you like. (otherwise it's in view and upside down).

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Yea I think the 'bad batch' might have just been those with the different fittings and they leaked. Might have to get around some jobs on the car now that uni's almost over the year n I can finally earn some money again lol

Thanks mate for the write up!

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So they have changed back to the old fittings bellato? I cant remember the reason I got msc brand, probably the first one I came across. Although there is one thing I can complain about the msc filter, and it is that the paint has burnt off from the heat and it looks like crap.

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