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  • Silver Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 7m 8d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: left right out

Each "-" is 1/16th of an inch, or about 1,5mm. so a -2 = 2x 1/16 (1/8") or about 3mm. - 4 = 4x 1/16 (1/4")or about 6mm. (its 6.35mm to be exact).

Knowing this you can measure your steel hard lines in mm and work it out back to the dash system using this chart http://mdmetric.com/tech/cvtcht.htm

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 10m 26d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Darwin

Dammit, had my mechanic install this a couple of days ago and after smelling burning oil for a couple of days I've worked out where it is coming from. Between the end of the oil feed line ( turbo side) and the original end of the line is leaking oil. Lost heaps, only just on the stick.

Is is between the original bit that screws directly into the turbo and the end of the new feed line that is leaking. They have out some sealant on it but it is clearly not working. Was this supposed to have been removed and the new feed line directly screwed into the turbo?

If not what sealant should I use to fix it. Totally not worth the $100+ labor. Only got the mechanic to do it as the fuel pump died and it was already in the shop.

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  • Member
  • Member For: 11y 4m 20d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: near brisbane

mine is a ba ,but it fitted straight into the turbo . I would undo it and apply some lock tight sealant (apply to thread only ) best of luck with it

  • ...JD TUNING ADELAIDE...
  • Gold Donating Members
  • Member For: 17y 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Adelaide

Norrs

Your mechanic is a peanut

It goes into the turbo core , piss that stand off that the new oil line is screwed into ( hence the leaking )

  • Like 2
  • Moar Powar Babeh
  • Lifetime Members
  • Member For: 19y 8m 25d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

Sealant is good for the bearings, takes up all the clearance and slows them right down.

  • Like 1

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