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05 Ba2 Xr6T Original Clutch


clevo400

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  • Member For: 14y 2m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Hey men, how many km's does the AVERAGE factory clutch get ??? I mean a normal person driving stock std and no bs 3000-4000 rpm drop clutch takeoffs. Car has 98k on the clock and no tow bar. Light squirts off the line only usually popping clutch in at 60 kph the rolling or flooring in second gear and rolling to 100 kph. Has done 30k in 3 years and missus drives like a pussy.

Also reading when the time comes if not a Mal Wood 3 for $1,500 the only other to buy is an Exedy for $600 ??? This correct.

Cheers.

p.s I've been a member for over 1 year and never posted cos of the bs and attitude I have read. I am 39 yo and drive NORMAL. If racing I take off at 2000 rpm max and use second gear to hammer. All stock but will look at basic mods soon and am aware of the rod/piston weakness. Also anyone here from Townsville cos all we have is the V8 GT club and alot of Late model camira wankers. (Commodores are OK just their drivers)

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  • Member For: 18y 2m 2d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney

It's one of those "piece of string" deals when it comes to clutch life, in saying that the factory clutch is fairly average and only barely good enough for the standard power.

Mal Wood clutch kits are a complete kit and offer a brilliant pedal feel with plenty of room to modify. I would say the $600 exedy is a standard replacement and may not come with a flywheel...

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  • Member For: 14y 4d
  • Gender: Male

Wouldn't bother with the exedy mate if you were looking at modding in the future.

My clutch lasted 110000kms until I modded the car and 1 month layer couldn't handle the torque.

The mal wood clutch is much more drive able an user friendly over the stock clutch and even more so over the exedy.

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  • Moar Powar Babeh
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  • Member For: 19y 6m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth

what bs and attitude?

p.s I've been a member for over 1 year and never posted cos of the bs and attitude I have read. I am 39 yo and drive NORMAL. If racing I take off at 2000 rpm max and use second gear to hammer. All stock but will look at basic mods soon and am aware of the rod/piston weakness. Also anyone here from Townsville cos all we have is the V8 GT club and alot of Commodore wankers. (Commodores are OK just their drivers)

As above

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  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 2m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Thanks senna_T and MX Dave - Advice is much appreciated - Cars done 98,000 km and think its the original clutch - No mods yet so will stick with the factory flywheel and read on here the Exedy was the "best" standard type clutch to buy - Think it has 55% more clamping force - The 300kW mods ie 60lb, walbro and tune will be later - Townsville lost its Drag Strip recently and working there for 3 years I've seen worse attitudes and lots of money spent on mods that don't work - Too bad you other 3 couldn't offer your advice about standard clutches first hence why I haven't posted in 1 year, 9 months and 1 day

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 14y 2m 17d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville

Found I had a very light clunk (clunk can be heard but not felt) in the rear when changing down gears at low speed and thought it the clutch playing up but now hardie spicer want to change the centre bearing/cv in the alloy tailshaft for $750 and pedders want to change the diff bushes for $1,300- does this sound right or am I getting ripped ???

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  • I am dissatisfied with my current employment situation
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  • Member For: 18y 6m 12d
  • Gender: Male

Wouldn't bother with the exedy mate if you were looking at modding in the future.

My clutch lasted 110000kms until I modded the car and 1 month layer couldn't handle the torque.

The mal wood clutch is much more drive able an user friendly over the stock clutch and even more so over the exedy.

This x100

I bought my car with an exedy snd after a year and a half I could have entered my left leg in a bodybuilding comp.. Now with the mw its light as and doesnt hurt my knee anymore

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  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 14y 4d
  • Gender: Male

Found I had a very light clunk (clunk can be heard but not felt) in the rear when changing down gears at low speed and thought it the clutch playing up but now hardie spicer want to change the centre bearing/cv in the alloy tailshaft for $750 and pedders want to change the diff bushes for $1,300- does this sound right or am I getting ripped ???

Driveline clunks are normally from the diff bushes mate. The centre bearing, tail shaft cv and donut coupling can also contribute to the noise.

I'd advise on getting a quote to do them elsewhere. It cost me less than 100$ cost price for my centre diff bush (the main culprit) and just a couple hours to instal ( workshop + tools and hoist available)

Edited by MX Dave
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