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  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 4d
  • Gender: Male

On a route that I do I was getting 400km tank now can get over 500km a tank with the GT500 injectors 16:1 and high timing advance. I do drive like a pussy though.

But I was using the Drilled Nizpros that came with the car when getting 400 with stock air/fuel ratios and very retarded timing compared to stock. So a low starting point.

Edited by turbotrana
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA - South of the River

Did you manage to resolve the original issue Turbotrana? My car is going fine since return to stock - no idle issues at all (as it was prior to changing the
injectors and tune) - I think I am ready to have it retuned but this time with stock set up - test the water again.



  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 4d
  • Gender: Male

I think so. It may be as simple as a sticking throttle butterfly plate. (in my case). Although I put a secondhand one in, I did fix the sticking in the original t/b very easily by undoing the two butterfly bolts slightly and realigning the butterfly plate. Then it open and closed as it should. But I didn't do an A B A test.

But then again it could be something out in the electronics of that throttle body also. Mine was a 6/2008 throttle body even though it was a 1/2009 car. The T/b I have now is a 01/11. So maybe these early T/Bs may have had a slight issue. All I know is that a change in T/B did something good.

  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 29d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: WA - South of the River

Thanks - so since changing your throttle body - fixing the sticking - have you had any issues at all with idle dipping? If not I will check my throttle body - how did you know the build date of throttle body?

  • Member
  • Member For: 22y 1m 4d
  • Gender: Male

The throttle body is probably not your problem (but it could be) cause your vehicle is OK on the stock tune. Mine would stall on a stock tune (according to the tuners history of the vehicle). However I would do a swap (if you can find one) to eliminate it. No point relying on fault codes.

Cause I run 16:1 air fuel ratio at idle, the idle is not 100% for me and never will be so its a bit hard giving out info. It But its pretty good (I've never gotten such a stable lean idle before with other cars I have tuned, I've learnt since that its sequential injection and fuel injection timing is what gets you mostly there). I get no stalling, a very stable idle but just an occassional dip that will recover very quickly with no hunting (this is more to do with the lean air fuel ratio). A few different areas of behaviour have noticibly improved.

Also as stated before the alternator pulley was changed to a slightly smaller one. The same size they have used for 20 yrs prior to the FG.

These sort of niggly problems are a PIA. What works for me may not necessarily work for you, I am just conveying what I have done so it could maybe help others like you.

The date is printed on the side of the black plastic piece on the T/B.

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