Territory Rear Brake Upgrade For Fg?

[IH8TOADS]

No other mods required. I even used the BA lines. I put the BA premium brakes on the front at the same time so hard to gauge. It can't be a bad thing as there is a reasonable size difference. If putting bigger fronts on I would definitely do it.

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

Sweet as. Cheers for your input

Decisions decisions..... yeah I just dunno if its worth it in the end...As you said if the fronts were going brembo or something then maybe upgrading rear would be good. But def cant do that as I cbf selling my rims

Google rekons on some site that the braking is done by 2/3 front and 1/3 rear but also read another thing saying up to 80% of braking is done by fronts and 20% rear.

Maybe one day in the future when I have run out of mods to do, then I might consider this....I guess the extra $300 I save can go towards my suspension or tune or woteva lol

cheers

[Bulletime]

Mate don't bother, unless going brembos up front ull get hardly anything out of it. With good pads and tires and t3s up font your maxin out your stopping power with the front 2 pots anyway just about.

[rockafellqeinstien]

my ute ate through rear pads 2 to 1 compared with fronts - they were working hard due to loads and heavy breaking (and traction control on mud tracks)

was a big upgrade to me - for the price if you have to do rotors any way its pretty cheap upgrade

[IH8TOADS]

^^^ agree now is the time if doing rotors and pads.

[discostig]

  On 21/10/2013 at 4:22 AM, IH8TOADS said:

I had to trim the backing plate on my BA to fit the larger caliper

My friendly local brake mob had to do the same when I upgraded my stock BFII rears to the ones that come with the FPV Brembo kit. Boy it made a funny sound when I first fitted them myself. Plate dragging on rotor. Oops.

[BRK]

Since BA: Electronic brakeforce distribution (EBD), automatically changes the line pressure to the calipers based on road conditions, speed, loading and position of the car, etc. Always comes with ABS. The front calipers do the most work EBD distributes a bit less braking pressure to the rear brakes. It depends on road conditions and load and with some systems, EBD puts more braking pressure at the rear brakes during initial brake application before weight transfer happens. Pretty clever when it works properly.

If it is rotor / pad time, and you get stuck into it occasionally AND the calipers are bought for the right price - go for it. I would not imagine that 2nd hand terry calipers are a rare and sought after item but then some wreckers have a different views.

[PTR_NITRO_FG]

hahah...everyone's posts come flooding in at once

I think I should bite the bullet then and go for it...calipers will be $150 and bigger sized t3's will be around $100-$150 more, so I may as well

It will be very close to my dish (have about 10-15mm gap at the front caliper to rim...so these rears being 6mm larger will fill up the gap nicely).

I'm not buying the brakes right now (moneys tight) but pretty sure my next mod will be upgrading the rotors, pads and braided lines all round (and painting them a pretty colour also lol).

And BRK made a good point about the EBD...never even thought about it hahahah and I have been losing traction a bit more lately and dickheads in peak hour traffic means I have to slow down pretty fast sometimes

cheers people

  On 21/10/2013 at 2:26 PM, -SteveR- said:

Boy it made a funny sound when I first fitted them myself. Plate dragging on rotor. Oops.

And this made me laugh .... this would def be something I would do if I installed it myself

[Bomber]

Done it. My verdict.

Think about what you want out of the car before doing it. Why? If you're a straight line warrior don't bother. The main reason being increased weight. I weighed everything in my brembo/pbr upgrade. Surprisingly, the 4 piston brembo fronts are only 700g in total (x2 calipers) heavier than the PBR. The 355mm T3's however - 2kg each. If you went T3 5000's or similar with alloy hats, you'd knock off close to a kg each rotor. So, the fronts add bugger all.

However the rears add plenty - 7.5kg! 3.5kg in calipers with pads loaded - 2kg each for the rotors. Again, you could pull some of that out with alloy hats.

Why does it matter? You're effectively strapping on a 4kg flywheel to your rear axles. For 1/4 mile - not really desirable. For powercruise and the like, probably not worth it either. Just do the fronts and paint the rear calipers to match.

For me, I'm building a tourer. I like to punt mine a bit around twisty stuff and want better overall braking performance which this gives me.

As far as fit goes, you can reuse your existing lines but it's far from ideal. Basically, you end up 'snaking' the lower section because the factory line has 90 deg elbow on it but it needs a straight banjo. My fitter used the plastic grommet retainer off the original line and remade new ones. $90 total cost in rubber - $140 in Teflon braided. Looks factory neat - much better way to do it.

The backing plate needs a slight trim at the top to remove the outer edge roll to allow the new calipers to bolt up without pushing the plate closer to the rotor. It doesn't miss by much - 3mm. Don't cut it and it would near touch. Easily done and touch up with paint to stop it rusting.

All said I think it's worthwhile upgrade for the right application. 328mm vented also looks a poo load better than 303mm solids

[old_mate]

Mmm mine go on monday. Didn't think of all that weight. Oh well, they were recommended to be done by just about everyone following my brembo purchase