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  • RNS10S
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 24d
  • Gender: Male

Went and spent some time with the boys at Mainlube today where they performed the filtergram analysis on my Engine and Diff oil.

Aaron spent some time explaining the process and we went through the test together and were both surprised at how well the engine oil faired at 10,000 klms. Aaron even said the oil can do more but I am happy with 10,000 klm intervals.

The Diff oil was only 11,000 klms old and was in pretty bad shape.

Aaron did not knock the oil at all and simply put it down to the wrong oil for the application as there was evidence of metal to metal wear indicating the oils film strength was not up to the task.

I will be converting to the mainlube boundary gear oil in the diff but will happily continue to use the Amsoil 10W40 in the donk as it seems to be doing its job well.

I will also be adding magnets to the diff and power steering as I have seen first hand the benefits of what the magnets can stop circulating in the oil and reaching the load points where the damage occurs.

For those that think their oil is doing a good job I urge you to get your oil tested as without testing you are only guessing and really don't know what damage is being done.

I would like to thank Aaron and Steve from Mainlube for taking the time to conduct the tests and explain the benefits of using the correct oil for the application.

  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
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  • Member For: 15y 6m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Far north queensland
  On 05/10/2012 at 3:21 AM, nelsonian101 said:

I usually change the diff oil every 2 circuit days or 7,500kms or so.

My concerns with using a mineral based oil all the time is the ability to withstand the higher temperatures of the circuit on slicks with an 1800kg car.

Will use a mineral for the initial run in though. Any recommendations for a Mineral based oil?

Have been black flagged too many times on the track by overheating my diff oil and am over it. This is why I want to use a synthetic.

I still have the after market catch can fitted from the breather.

No question that synthetics will outlast mineral.

For your overheating it could be additive based (the additives already in the oil when you buy it), possibly the EP additives aren't up to the task of preventing metal to metal contact and extra heat from friction is being generated. Otherwise it could be the antifoam additive not being up to the task, small housing and churning gears makes for lots of aeration, these air bubbles go into the meshing gears and get compressed and go bang, creating heat and wear.

Bigger volume housing (aftermarket rear cover) with a heat sink could help you out a fair bit too.

  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 1m 3d
  On 05/10/2012 at 4:42 AM, rednose said:

1,000 only and I 'm not sure what Con used but it was a Castrol mineral oil.

Rob, as you know, I have the KAZ 1.5 Diff.

I was told to use the KAZ Diff Oil for the first 1000km and then change to the fully synthetic Castrol SAF-XA Diff Oil.

I was also told, very clearly, to change Oil every 3,000km.

I have done this and have had no problems!

  • RNS10S
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 24d
  • Gender: Male

Have you tested your oil?

The only way to know is to test it, otherwise you are just guessiing.

Edited by RHR
QUOTE REMOVED
  • I see a red door and I want to paint it black
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 15y 6m 15d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Far north queensland

only worth testing it if you do it properly, right sample procedures and right tests.

also fully synthetic from day 1 FTW

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  • RNS10S
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 24d
  • Gender: Male

Mine was tested by filtergram analysis at Mainlube.

They found the oil I was using did not have enough film strength for the application at hand.

Engine oil was tested aswell and was in very good shape after 10,000 klms.

  • Banned
  • Banned
  • Member For: 12y 9m 20d
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Synthetic in a KAAZ....not sure that's the best idea.

I run KAAZ mineral oil in my BA and it's holding up quite well along with the ULX110 mineral oil,I use Cavpower to test the oils.

  • RNS10S
  • Donating Members
  • Member For: 18y 8m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  On 22/11/2012 at 10:36 AM, GTEXXED said:

Synthetic in a KAAZ....not sure that's the best idea.

I run KAAZ mineral oil in my BA and it's holding up quite well along with the ULX110 mineral oil,I use Cavpower to test the oils.

What type of test do they conduct?

My diff oil will still pass an IR test even though there was evidence of metal to metal wear.

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