Clutch Pedal To Floor

[Wenier]

Also the remote bleed line is generally an extra that needs to be order with the malwood clutch. Just get one and put it in while your going to all this trouble.

[Kroozin]

The new clutch slave doesn't appear to push back as far as the old one.. Roughly 5mm difference but I'm not sure if coz the old one is pharked that it slides further or that's the way it's supposed to be..?

Sometimes nothing seems easy. Haven't fitted the box back in yet, just procrastinating while I wait for my mate.

[Kroozin]

Thanx guys and particularly ratter for mentioning the depth.

I'm going to wait and just buy that alloy 1 with the right depth inc. the extra bleed line.

Thanx a heap guys.

Like has been said I might aswell just wait and do it properly.

Cheers Brendan

[ratter]

you still need to measure the depth though when you get a new one, do not order a genuine one as they are plastic, Mal Wood Supplies alloy ones

[Kroozin]

So I ordered the new csc and braided line from Mal and it turned up less than 24hrs later interstate.

Bloody good service from those guys

Just waiting for the tailshaft to get back after replacing the centre bearing bush and getting a rebalance... $300 a good price??

Fitted up the gearbox in the mean time and bled the clutch.. for some reason it was easier to get the fluid thru to gain a peddle without cracking the bleeder.

Seemed like everytime I bled the clutch with the bleeder it would just loose all peddle..?

Found the below vvvvvvvv to do the trick.

stole this from another thread....

Workshop Manual said:

Fill the clutch reservoir to Full mark and keep filled above 1/4 full at all times during bleed procedure.

Pump the clutch pedal at a moderate pace through its full travel ensuring the pedal returns fully up against it’s stop. Note that the pedal may need to be pulled back manually by hand to fully return. Rapid pedal returns can be of assistance if the clutch appears difficult to bleed.

Continue to pump the clutch pedal in bursts of 10 pumps with a rest for 5 seconds (with pedal fully returned) in between.

After 30 seconds to a minute some pedal feel should exist, continue the pumping/resting cycle until the pedal has come up fully (up to approx 5 minutes). Some rapid pumping at the end of this time may improve the bleed slightly but is not necessarily required.

If there is some initial sponginess or play in the first part of pedal travel at this stage continue with a CSC bleed. This is normally only required if the CSC has been drained or replaced. Elevate the vehicle to gain access to the underside of the transmission and bleed the CSC manually by depressing the pedal fully and holding it down whilst an assistant opens and then closes the bleed port on the side of the clutch housing (similar process to manually bleeding the brakes). Repeat until pumped fluid is not aerated (usually 2-4 strokes). Note that approx 3 full strokes will almost empty the reservoir. Ensure that fluid remains in the reservoir at all times or the procedure may need to be started again.

The clutch system should now be fully bled. Ensure that the reservoir is filled to Full mark and test drive the vehicle to ensure that the clutch is disengaging properly and not dragging. Note that

the system is self-bleeding and some slight improvement will occur in pedal feel and take-up point after the vehicle has sat for a few hours or overnight after the above bleed procedure. This is normal as any emulsified air will coalesce and bleed out automatically during this time.

So yeh now its got peddle but I'd say its half old and new fluid... just going to let it self bleed fully then give it 3 bleeds tomorrow via the bleeder valve as I ran out of time.

for now im stuck driving mums car now quite as fast but certainly looks tuff.

Edited 08/08/12 09:28 AM by Kroozin