Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 05/08/12 09:16 AM Author Share Posted 05/08/12 09:16 AM that's not going to be all for sound deadening, will also be using mlv and ccf if I can find it.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjc Donating Members 2,823 Member For: 21y 2m 14d Gender: Male Location: Townsville Posted 05/08/12 09:27 AM Share Posted 05/08/12 09:27 AM The product that you are using looks like it is made of high density foam with a silver paper on top? Could you take some close up photos of the sound deadener as it looks EXTREMELY thick! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 05/08/12 09:41 AM Author Share Posted 05/08/12 09:41 AM its more like butyl foam- sort of like the stuff that you see in control joins in brick work..heres a link.http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/250940680109?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_5498wt_906 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knoles Donating Members 390 Member For: 13y 8m 1d Gender: Male Location: Port Hedland Posted 05/08/12 10:14 AM Share Posted 05/08/12 10:14 AM I gotta hand it to ya, I love the approach you've taken to this. On a budget but putting in the effort to get the absolute maximum from your money. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 05/08/12 11:23 AM Author Share Posted 05/08/12 11:23 AM well I, like many, have alot on my plate. house, wife, kids, mortgage, business to run. I have too many other things on to put all my eggs in a car audio basket. if money was no object I'd be going with mosconi, focal, mb quart, zapco etc, but unless a rich relative I dont know about dies, im gonna have to be on a budget.my reason for doing a thread on my build is to try to get more info on the table for people to view. many will have more of an idea on car audio than me, and feedback/ criticism is welcome. im open to new ideas, and advice on anyone who wants to give it.in the meantime, if anyone wants to see some really good diy builds, and I mean REALLY good, check out DIYMA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bossmang FREAKY Donating Members 12,423 Member For: 14y 10m 24d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 05/08/12 12:26 PM Share Posted 05/08/12 12:26 PM would the extra thickness of the sound deadener make it difficult when putting plastic trims back on like the doors for eg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 06/08/12 11:44 AM Author Share Posted 06/08/12 11:44 AM not sure, but ill let you know soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 11/08/12 01:03 PM Author Share Posted 11/08/12 01:03 PM (edited) have been shopping for the 3rd speaker for my 3 way front stage- and after plenty of research have just ordered these:http://www.madisound...x-3-full-range/one of the best on the market for this application...Comments: This is without a doubt the highest performing 3" I've come across, at least on a few fronts. The motor is an underhung neodymium design and the cone is thin (and fragile) formed aluminum. The only negative is a slightly ragged top end that may take some filter work if used full range, but I'd generally recommend a cheap and small neo tweeter placed close and crossed over high. There's a lot on the positive side, like high sensitivity, a clean low end and smooth midrange response. The frame is cast with ventilation under the spider, but users will have to pay close attention to airflow behind the cone - It's even more important to chamfer the inside baffle opening and in this case likely use a thinner baffle material as well. Edited 11/08/12 01:08 PM by Panda Eyes 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 12/08/12 01:43 AM Author Share Posted 12/08/12 01:43 AM just bought my last 2 channels of amplification for my front stage.this will power the 3" full range- http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/170790088584?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_3726wt_1037so just got to receive the goodies, and then its time to build...have a sheet of 17mm ply being delivered tomoro, then need to get hold of a heap of fibreglass supplies, then time to start building.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Panda Eyes flame magnet Gold Donating Members 5,674 Member For: 16y 6m 1d Gender: Male Location: adelaide hills- 'race air' central Posted 17/08/12 02:02 AM Author Share Posted 17/08/12 02:02 AM progress over the last couple days...head lining was a bit saggy and crappy, due to being removed and reinstalled by the last owner...half the foam stayed on the roof, half with the lining, so scraped most of that off...will have to replace the headlining, so will do it black, and all the pillars too. a little sound proofing first though...now time for some wiring. I need to run all the wiring I will need to go from front to back, so started with all the high level signals from the icc and going to the sound processor, which will be in the boot... these are behind the glove box.... mainly. what isnt behind the glove box, is the front driver side speaker wires... so out with the icc for a looksy. nup, not there.I looked, and looked and looked, but could not see where they run to the drivers door. the molex plug is non accessible, without taking the fuse box and god knows what else out, so that wasnt an option.so the only way I could see to get around it is to take the signal from in the door itself, and route it back into the cabin.I ran a second wire trace through the door and into the cabin, to run the high level signal wires, plus the new speaker wires from the amplifier...then attached the front and rear passenger, and rear driver wires to signal wires running to the boot...this is how I twisted the pairs...now time to go out and run some more wires... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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