What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

[Constantfallappart]

On the cards today is figure out why the idle is so rough, pretty sure its the mix of low fuel low oil and washing it with the bonnet slighly popped 🤣

[Puffwagon]

You've chucked a bunch of water into a plug hole and it's earthing out the coil. Fix it ASAP cos you'll burn out a coil or two if you keep running it.

[Slowxr6t]

Today I put a gfb turbo fuse on my motor, I set it up with the air compressor regulator to activate at about 18-19psi. Im currently boosting 16psi. Its a overboost protection valve. Had it sitting in box for about 5 years, finally got round to testing it and fitting it. I am looking at a pro flow thermostat housing and they have a hose tail screwed in the side of them near the top which my fgx doesnt use or need, my cars housing has a blanked off hole in that spot. But I have a saas digital water temp guage to fit and im wondering if that hose tail port would be a good place to put the screw in  water temp sensor. Any ideas? Does the thermostat open upwards and let water go to radiator? I havnt looked inside the thermostat housing. Cheers guys.

[El Andrew]

Car keeps dumping coolant a couple of minutes after being turned off. There were drops on the heater hoses, so I've been constantly checking and replacing clamps trying to solve it. Is tricky because hot coolant evaporates so quickly it can be hard to trace the leak.

Finally caught it yesterday - coolant was flooding out the base of the header tank until the tank was almost empty. Some of it was spraying at the heater hoses Once the tank empties itself and cools, you can fill it again and doesn't leak at all. So I'm guessing it has a hairline crack in the tank which was an eBay cheapie.

Order a genuine replacement so hopefully that does the job. Coolant isn't boiling and temps are perfect so I don't think it is anything else in the cooling system.

[Puffwagon]

On 28/11/2023 at 4:29 PM, Slowxr6t said:

I set it up with the air compressor regulator to activate at about 18-19psi. Im currently boosting 16psi.

Please don't just up the boost and send it. The last tune you had (that I can remember) was suited for 16psi and I can tell ya there is about 3 to 4 too many degrees of timing in that for a 19 psi tune.

 

15 minutes ago, El Andrew said:

So I'm guessing it has a hairline crack

Sounds like a rooted cap

[El Andrew]

I did wonder that too and ordered that as well. I can't blow through the cap though. Seemed to be too much escaping out the bottom for the size of the escape hole. But the cost of a tank is about the same as an uber to work and back for one day if it holds me up so went for both.

Edit: for science I'll try changing the cap on its own but keep the new bottle and tools in the car just in case. Travelling for work next week so have a bit of time for everything to arrive in the post. Pulling up in the carpark in a cloud of steam (as it all drops onto the turbo heat shield) and leaving coolant on the floor is getting old

[woz84]

I had the same issue many years ago, new cap fixed it.

 

New header tanks from sparesbox come with a cap, $30 delivered not worth trying to clean out the old one that's a few years old.

[El Andrew]

You definitely point the finger at yourself though when a few days beforehand you replaced the radiator and all the hoses!

[Puffwagon]

Here's a tip and not the best kind but a tip is a tip. You don't put coolant in the car after doing work until you have definitely got it back to good. This means just water for a week or two until all leaks are fixed. Coolant is expensive to replace and messy when it spills, water is neither.

[Slowxr6t]

Good tip, I scraped the idea of putting a water temp sensor in thermostat housing. I instead bought a proflow billet inline sensor housing I will put in radiator hose somewhere. Do you guys in straya get your barras hot with stock radiators? Its way hotter there than nz.