What Did You Do To Your Car Today?

[Slowxr6t]

@Puffwagon so today I took wastegate off and checked it out, it leaks air from one port to the other past the diaphragm on both ports and when putting air thru one port if you block the other port with finger air leaks down the sides of the valve stem into the valve chamber. So I got a piece of hose and put one end on each port so it's sealed and the hose from boost solenoid is blocked. I went for a drive, wastegate has what we think is a 7psi spring, it got 10 psi pretty quickly, I don't know if it would make more because I stopped because check engine light came on, also at the same time dsc alarm came on. Dsc came on yesterday too and when slowing right down almost stopped the front wheels shuddered like I'd hit a rumble strip or something. It did that about 5 times and then dsc came on. Goes away when turn car off then comes back on again after driving for 5 minutes. Anyway check engine came on so I slowly drove home. It's boosting now with no hose to it from solenoid. Why do you reckon check engine came on? You said boost solenoid doesn't send signal to ecu. So ecu must have sensed 10psi at plenum and sorted it out.

[Puffwagon]

With no boost control/ gate pressure, a split or leaking wg diaphragm will make more boost than the spring is rated for. From your earlier posts the car was making 15psi then started to only make 10psi. To me this is pointing to a pretty substantial boost leak.

 

I don't know why the dsc is playing up or if it has anything to do with the boost related issue. Maybe someone has seen this exact situation before and is aware of something I'm not? You'd need to read the car with a scan tool or hp tuners to see what code is in there. It's possible that you were over the high boost threshold for long enough to throw a code there.

 

I don't recommend driving around with no boost reference to the wastegate. There is a possibility that it could send the boost too high causing engine damage. Either have the boost solenoid plumbed in or run a line from the comp housing to the bottom port of the gate.

 

If you are satisfied that there isn't an issue with the wastegate then my next suggestion is to smoke test the inlet tract. If you can log the timing at idle it can indicate whether or not there is a leak in the plenum.

 

Random thought, is the stock recirc valve being used and if so does it have a boost reference and is it otherwise intact, aka not farked?

[Slowxr6t]

Bov is turbosmart to atmosphere, I might blank it off to rule out a leak there. It originally made 13-14 psi with the 7psi spring but took a long time to get there, it had been like that since I did all mods and 3582r  about a year ago. It had 10psi at 2500rpm but took till 4500-5000rpm  to get 13-14 psi. Apart from that it was fine, until the other day I put a 10psi spring in it, That's when all the problems started!! I put in the 10psi spring because I thought the valve was getting pushed open by pressure. I think I was right, but it's all turned to custard. It made 15psi by about 4000-4500 and felt good for about 30minutes of driving, then it decided to make 10max. I'm back using the 7psi spring now with no boost reference and it made 10psi as in my last post with both ports blocked on wastegate. My wastegate needs a new diaphragm kit at a bare minimum but something else is going on too.

[Slowxr6t]

@PuffwagonI think I have figured out the boost leak thanks to all your thoughts. The wastegate is leaking from both sides of diaphragm and also down past sides of valve stem. So when valve opens off its seat it leaks up past valve stem into where diaphragm is and goes past diaphragm and pisses out the top port which was going to atmosphere.  It must have just started leaking when it had 15psi up it and blew past the diaphragm and out she goes to atmosphere. I reckon that's my boost leak right there. What do you think ? I think I need a new wastegate, didn't last long, piece of crap. Might have to get a water cooled one if it will fit. Anyone tried one?

[Tom Tucker]

@Slowxr6tWhat wastegate is it?

[Puffwagon]

1 hour ago, Slowxr6t said:

it's all turned to custard.

 

Seems to me you need a new custard tank

 

Look man you might have had a 5psi spring in there which would make sense why you were getting 10psi with a farked diaphragm. The 10psi spring may have been a 7psi spring which would make sense why it was making 15psi. Who knows?!

 

At any rate it sounds like the gate needs some attention so there's a starting point. Make sure the boost reference is attached when you fix it or install a new one.

[Slowxr6t]

@Tom Tuckerturbosmart gen 4 45mm hypergate

[k31th]

While I lowered my car (this thread -> https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/96613-lowering-a-ba-xr6t-tastefully/) I also maintained/upgraded the brake setup.

 

Put in some Bendix CT for the rears - they were pretty low on the passenger side:

 

not quite so low on the driver's side:

 

Put some Circo S17 pads on the front. Should stop very well. Very very low on the front passenger side (yikes... left it a bit late due to funds and timing...):

 

As they say, a rounded bolt can turn a couple of hours worth of work into a couple of days worth of work, and this was no exception:

 

stupid drivers side caliper mounting bolt was absolutely tight AF in there... way tighter than torque spec... I bent the brake-line bracket out of the way so I could fit one of my bolt removers in there to take a crack at it. Ended up getting a bolt/thread doctor guy out to help get it undone. Had to hammer on a more heavy-duty bolt remover and use my 3/4" drive ratchet with me holding it onto the bolt so it didn't slip/fall off and the bolt doctor guy lent on the other end with all his weight and that satisfying "crack" as it came undone was fantastic to hear after all my effort to get it out (don't have a welder or heavy-duty easy outs etc)... was a monster to get out... my guess is was more like 150Nm instead of the 115 spec'd.

Here's the results of the handiwork of his monster of a bolt remover:

 

And the replacement bolts from Ford:

 

And back onto the job at hand... the brakes...

drivers side at the front just barely had any friction material left:

 

The new hub/bearing assembly into place and the pads in the caliper waiting to be re-mounted:

 

And the new DBA T2's (slotted and vented) in place on top:

 

And the new DBA T2's on the rear, too (just slotted, not vented)

 

After a good bleed up of the brakes the spongy/low pedal feel is gone, and it stops very nicely after a good bed-in. Also the squealing under brakes that was letting me know I was supposed to change the pads is gone. And the bearing noise is gone when turning left yay.

[adams355]

Hey keithy you know those brake pads are for people who drive fast don't you haha. Once they bed in nice you will be real happy at how they slow or stop at speed. You can also get some spacers for ride height front or rear if it's not sitting where you want it, they handle a lot better as well with the rear slightly lower than the front.

[k31th]

me? & slow driving they don't mix  

 

Also, I'm happy with how it sits now